apAdventures

Amongst my many failed attempts at Better Eat Your Wheaties last weekend, we decided to seek out a bunch of new stuff. Not new as in new climbs that have recently been put up but new as in new to us. So maybe I should call it different stuff. Either way, getting on a climb that one has never seen let alone tried before is always fun. Especially when one is failing miserably on one’s project (me) or getting back in shape after much time off (Paul). And the kids always love a new area to explore too.

Due to the East Spur being jammed with just about every tour that was out that day, we found ourselves reluctantly calling in an area we hadn’t been before. S-Curve and Friends. Sure, why not. If it’s difficult to get to at least it’ll pass some time while the climbs we wanted to get on freed up. Turns out the approach was a breeze…just a few hundred yards from Moonshine Roof, no scrambling or kid-shuttling required. Upon arrival we were immediately star struck by this beautiful house-sized boulder sitting in the middle of a pretty little meadow. On it was Mr. Freud, v4, 3 stars. Tell me again why after a decade of climbing at Hueco have we never been here?! The climb was excellent to say the least.

Me pulling on to Mr. Freud, v4

From there we checked out S-Curve, v6, an interesting, technical, smear-y thing that is very atypical of Hueco. Paul sent. I wasn’t in the adventurous mood and thus declined to try.

Paul’s send of S-Curve, v6

After that it was on to Lung Fish, v7, an exciting ditty with big explosive movement (for me anyway – the book says you can find some kneebars to help you through the crux but I could not, hence the big explosive movement). Paul cleaned this up quickly. I’ll need to go back.

A fun setting at Lung Fish, v7

Big move to a good crimp

The crimp

And then another big move (or two if you need an intermediate) to good holds before a creative topout that transfers you to another boulder

And finally on to the real gem of the weekend, The Slopey Rail, v8. It’s exactly what the name implies and Paul and I both LOVED it. This one may take a little more work on my part, or a random strong day. Paul of course did it within a few tries.

Paul on The Slopey Rail, v8

The weekend also included some other moderate sends for Paul as he ramps back up into shape:
a repeat of Slim Pickins, v5
Beer, Pizza and a Three Foot Toothless Girl, v6
Meddle Detector, v6
Nobody’s Funky, v7
and Sledgehammer, v8.

Paul sending Sledeghammer, v8

And let’s not forget our newest climber in the family, Silas. He was INSISTENT on getting his turn to climb at every area. Meanwhile Ivan just hung around lookin’ darn cute.

posted by arr

…before you go climbing and forget a critical item. “Critical” as in the outing is either completely unsalvageable or at the very most, extremely uncomfortable. Like realizing you forgot your water when you’re three pitches up on a sunny fall day in Red Rocks, Nevada. Or forgetting to toss that bug repellant in your pack when climbing at Rumney, New Hampshire in May. Or how about our most dreaded worry of forgetting our climbing shoes when headed to Hueco (where there are no gear shops in El Paso). No, we didn’t forget our shoes. It was worse than that. We forgot our food bag while out bouldering for the day!

Ahem, let me clarify – PAUL forgot the food bag. And this just happened to coincide with Paul’s first day climbing again after his broken finger hiatus; the day we decide to get all crazy and venture up into the Maiden Gully on East Mountain for the first time with the kids. Now, as if the Maiden Gully itself isn’t epic enough with children due to all the scrambling and tunneling through the gully’s labyrinthian jumble of boulders, we had accessed it via the steep slabs at the end of Water Dog Wall which required shuttling of heavy pads and kids. And then to top it all off, once we had arrived at our destination (a boulder problem called Beer, Pizza and a Three Foot Toothless Girl, v6) we were essentially in a windy icebox. It was here, once we’d arrived after a good 40 minute approach, once we’d dropped all our heavy gear down, bundled up the kids in their winter clothes and let out a sigh of relief that we’d made it without mishap, here, that we realized……Paul forgot the food bag.

Great. Now what? Plan B? IS there even a Plan B? Or was this a case where the outing is completely unsalvageable and we had to turn right around and head back to the van?

We decided we had about an hour or so before the kids would realize the severity of the situation. We sprung into action: Paul quickly threw on his shoes and started warming up while the kids and I got out the toys. Off to a good start, they were warm and happy. Soon though it was my turn to warm-up and sure enough they started inquiring about the forgotten snack bag. Luckily Paul was able to divert them back to the toys. Whew. We both ticked off Dreamy, v2 and felt warm enough to check out Beer, Pizza…. So far so good? Eh, not quite. The demand for the snack bag started to escalate and Ivan began tearing through all our other bags looking for it. (Note, it *was* still before noon and we had had an enormous breakfast, so it wasn’t like they were starving). Re-direct, re-direct. I managed to get them interested in a make-believe band. I was on drums, Silas played trumpet and Ivan played whatever instrument it was he was trying to play, we never did quite figure it out. We jammed on and off while Paul worked the moves out on Beer, Pizza…. Yeah baby, we’ve got this. Now it’s my turn to climb. Ivan immediately protests and heads for the gear, beginning his quest for the snack bag again all zombie-style. Sigh. Thankfully though Paul is a freakin’ genius and contorts himself into a human junglegym. The kids go wild. I put my shoes back on and start sampling the moves on Beer, Pizza…. By this point though I’m chilled to the bone and finding it very hard to climb hard. I decide to call it quits on this climb for the day. Paul is able to give it a few more tries while the kids and I sing songs. And finally, alas, finally….just as we’re all about to reach our tipping point but with juuuuust time enough to spare for the hike back…we bail and head back to the van (where we then gorge in a back-to-back lunch/dinner combo).

When all was said and done we put in about a half-day of climbing. The kids never quite broke down (beyond their usual crankiness here and there). And we were psyched to have gotten to climb on some new boulder problems in an area we hadn’t all been to before. We got out the next day too (WITH THE FOOD BAG loaded to the brim!) and enjoyed some good moderate climbs. This was Paul’s first weekend out, I was battling a cold, and we both still had plenty of Christmas cookies to work off after a 3 week rest so no hard sends to report. Despite my slight lapse in fitness I did get on Better Eat Your Wheaties as motivation to get back in tip-top performance shape quickly. Let’s just say I’ve been training like mad all week. 🙂

In the windy icebox of the Maiden Gully trying to look all cheery despite the forgotten food bag

Paul warming up. First rock climb of his comeback!

Paul part-handjamming and part-laybacking the first section of Beer, Pizza and a Three Foot Toothless Girl, v6. Next comes a roof and then a headwall which we failed to get photos of

Day 2. Me gettin’ all spiderwoman on a warm-up

An owl in a tree

Silas was more adamant than ever about wanting to climb on this trip

and so we go with it!

It’s when he’s not climbing that we really need to watch him. “Here Ivan, just touch this little pokey right here. That’s it, right here. It won’t hurt at all I promise.”

Me sending The Mini Bathtub, v2. Excellent climb! I can’t believe we’d never come to this one before

Paul on Meddle Detector, v6

Soon after these shots were taken another tour came up and gave us some better beta – going right hand instead of left on this move, for one

posted by arr

The day after we arrived in Pittsburgh we embarked upon an adventure day downtown for the kids: A ride on the subway, a look at the gingerbread and train display in the PPG building, and a then a ride on the incline. Good thing we decided to do all this on the first day, because the kids soon came down with bronchitis a few days later. Booooo.

Paul’s family postponed their traditional Christmas Eve polish dinner until we were in town. Paul’s brother Mark, Francine and Luke hosted…and did all the cooking. Mmmmmm!

Ivan and his Pap Pap, stuffed to the brim

Silas working off the food while Auntie Jude looks on

A visit from Great Grandma prompts abundant kiss-blowing from Ivan

Silas enjoying his Christmas gifts

Ivan and Grandma admiring the lights on the tree

and the snow outside!

Ivan and Silas with Grandma and Pap Pap. Happy New Year!

posted by arr

posted by arr

Our big multi-week stay at Hueco Tanks with Brian, Jen and fam has now come to an end. Both of our vans are currently on I-10 headed home, but our’s is headed west and their’s east. We’re of course sad it’s over but at the same time happy to have had such a blast with them…(not to mention being happy with a few more sweet rock climbs that have been added to the ticklist).

The last time I posted I was gearing up for more sending go’s on Better Eat Your Wheaties, v8. Turn’s out this coincided with our buddy John and brother-in-law Phillip’s visit to Hueco to get some photo/film coverage for their newly founded Three Peak Media venture. Get great footage they did…but not of me sending. I continued to fall from the last small crimp move. Grrr.

We climbed through the weekend, then all headed to Tucson for a rest week, then came back this weekend for the final hurrah. We again went back to Wheaties. I again tried to send. I again was falling from the last small crimp. “If I can just stick that crimp I’ve got this climb.” I’d done the crimp move in isolation. It wasn’t a hard move, just hard to stick after all the other moves. I took a nice long rest. I basked in the sunshine to warm up a little more. I tried one last time. And…and…I STUCK the last small crimp!!!!!!…but THEN FELL going for the final big flat edge!!!! Noooooo!!!!!

Being so close to completing it, the thought of having to wait until January to go back is killing me. The upcoming few weeks being filled with holidays, family time and lots of wickedly delicious food and drink does make me cringe just a tad. My timing couldn’t be worse, haha! But it is what it is. Having been training hard since August for this trip my body is desperately in need of a rest anyway.

Stiff-and-sore-fingers crossed I’ll jump right back on it in January and climb that boulder to the top. ☺

For those that have been to (or dreamed of) Hueco Tanks, you all probably can guess the small crimp on Better Eat Your Wheaties that I’m referring to due to the climb’s popularity. For those unfamiliar though, here’s a pic of me falling from it. The “small crimp” is just above my left hand. As stated above after finally sticking this small crimp I fell going to the larger flat edge shown directly above it. I don’t doubt I’m probably the ONLY climber in ALL of Wheaties history to FALL this close to the finish! Ahhh, story of my climbing career – falling from the last hold seems to be my trademark, haha.

Meanwhile Jen ticks off Meatmaker, v5 (a climb next to Wheaties) to pass the long boring rest time between all my go’s.

Brian attempting El Chupacabra Left, v10 as Paul jealously looks on

After the sun goes down the temps drop fast at Hueco in the winter. Without the luxury of a kitchen-equipped van, Jen and Brian brave the wind and cold over a coleman while Paul and I do our cooking inside our cozy warm van. To avoid complete van chaos with a guaranteed meltdown finale by either Ivan or Silas, we let the children watch a movie during dinner prep.

In Tucson for a rest week, Jen and I run up my favorite trail – Douglas Springs

and Oren has a birthday!

And then we’re back at Hueco

Checkin’ out aquatic life in the huecos,

loungin’ in the sun,

and climbing of course!

The “little crushers” (as a fellow climber dubbed the kids in passing) climbing on East Mountain’s Kid’s Stuff Wall

The first (crux) move of Hobbit in a Blender, v5

Which I send for the first time

and then Jen follows soon thereafter. Grrrrl power.

Silas reaches his limit after 2+ weeks of climbing and cozies up in a crazy creek for a 2 hour nap. I’m so not even joking.

Paul scopes the holds for me on Tri Hard, v4

and I give it a handful of tries. No send though. Too tired.

Oren impressing Ivan with his apple eating skills

Silas mow’ing PB&J

Ivan with his adopted mama. By the end of the trip he was going to Jen for his “all better” kisses after tripping or banging himself up. Sheesh!

Snack session

Yoga session

Balance beam session

Brian eyeing up McBain, v8 while we all heckle him about how much he hates toe and heel hooks. C’mon dude, it’s Hueco! (and then he promptly shuts us all up by sending it next try, WITH the toe hook beta).

Two families

that are OBSESSED with climbing rocks!

posted by arr

In the dark wee hours of the morning I awoke with alarm to the hard pitter patter of raindrops on the van’s roof. Noooooo!!! Today was supposed to be my chance at sending Better Eat Your Wheaties! Grrrr. Good things come to those who wait….I hope??

Stuck in the van

posted by arr

We’ve had a GREAT last couple of days here at Hueco. Brian ticked off West Mountain’s 1969, v9 in a day, Jen sent Sex After Death (her first v8!!!), as well as the notoriously stout El Burro, v3, AND See Spot Run, v6! And I fell from the last hard move of Better Eat Your Wheaties, v8 four times!!!! Ahhhh, I’m sooooo close!!!!! Hopefully today’s rest will secure a send for me tomorrow. …if it doesn’t rain, that is.

Brian and Paul on a “dad’s day out” at West Mountain

Brian’s send of 1969, v9

Silas atop his favorite rock climb of the day

All the rocks are Ivan’s favorite

Seb working out his beta on Donkey Show Arete, v0-

Me sampling Left Donkey Show, v5

Jen sends Sex After Death, v8!!!!!!!!!!!!

Windy topout of Incredible Pix, v1

Me midway up Better Eat Your Wheaties, v8

Jen sussing out the moves on Animal Acts, v5

Jen atop See Spot Run, v6…yeah!

This little bird hung out on the van windowpane for most of the morning, watching us eat breakfast. Silas immediately befriended him and lovingly named him Pecker…….(cause he ‘pecks’ at the window of course!)

posted by arr

Yesterday was dubbed “the v6 day.” As soon as Brian announced that he was interested in getting on See Spot Run, v6 we decided that we all had to send one of the grade. After falling from the last move of See Sharp on Day 1, Jen was anxious to clean up. And I had always wanted to try Short Order Cook, having never been on it.

Well, Brian flashed See Spot Run. Jen walked See Sharp. So now it’s the end of the day, starting to get dark and the pressure’s on to hold up my end of the deal by sending Short Order Cook. And I did! Go team v6!

Sorry, no photos were snapped of Short Order Cook. But below are some other goodies of the cute kiddos to make up for it.

Brian committing to See Spot Run, v6

Jen atop See Sharp, v6 after (what looked like) an effortless send

Oren gettin’ wild

Construction zone – do not enter!

Linda and Ty looking almost as adorable as the kiddos

Twilight at the boulders

Sherpa Paul trying to stay sane on a climbing trip that he can’t climb on

Silas eating all the chocolate chips out of the trail mix again and Seb pretending not to notice so as not to get his buddy into trouble (my theory, anyway)

Rest day! Time to clean the children. Ivan digging his baths in the kitchen sink.

posted by arr

Where oh where do I begin when it comes to all the things I’m thankful for? I’ll keep it simple: my loving family, my awesome friends, and great boulder problems, hehe. Happy Thanksgiving from Hueco Tanks!

Prepping for the big dinner

…which included special guests Linda and Ty who drove down from Colorado to join us for the weekend!

“Chef Linda” (as Silas lovingly refers to her as) sizzlin’ up some bacon for the brussel sprouts

Brian and Jen tag teaming the green beans and mashed potatoes

Ty preparing the butternut squash

Silas wanting to taste-test my homemade pumpkin pies

Oren entertaining Ivan

and Seb just lookin’ darn cute

and let’s not forget the turkey, gravy, bread, maple glazed beets, homemade cranberry sauce, and tasty red wine. Alright! Time to eat already!!

posted by arr