Our big multi-week stay at Hueco Tanks with Brian, Jen and fam has now come to an end. Both of our vans are currently on I-10 headed home, but our’s is headed west and their’s east. We’re of course sad it’s over but at the same time happy to have had such a blast with them…(not to mention being happy with a few more sweet rock climbs that have been added to the ticklist).
The last time I posted I was gearing up for more sending go’s on Better Eat Your Wheaties, v8. Turn’s out this coincided with our buddy John and brother-in-law Phillip’s visit to Hueco to get some photo/film coverage for their newly founded Three Peak Media venture. Get great footage they did…but not of me sending. I continued to fall from the last small crimp move. Grrr.
We climbed through the weekend, then all headed to Tucson for a rest week, then came back this weekend for the final hurrah. We again went back to Wheaties. I again tried to send. I again was falling from the last small crimp. “If I can just stick that crimp I’ve got this climb.” I’d done the crimp move in isolation. It wasn’t a hard move, just hard to stick after all the other moves. I took a nice long rest. I basked in the sunshine to warm up a little more. I tried one last time. And…and…I STUCK the last small crimp!!!!!!…but THEN FELL going for the final big flat edge!!!! Noooooo!!!!!
Being so close to completing it, the thought of having to wait until January to go back is killing me. The upcoming few weeks being filled with holidays, family time and lots of wickedly delicious food and drink does make me cringe just a tad. My timing couldn’t be worse, haha! But it is what it is. Having been training hard since August for this trip my body is desperately in need of a rest anyway.
Stiff-and-sore-fingers crossed I’ll jump right back on it in January and climb that boulder to the top. ☺
For those that have been to (or dreamed of) Hueco Tanks, you all probably can guess the small crimp on Better Eat Your Wheaties that I’m referring to due to the climb’s popularity. For those unfamiliar though, here’s a pic of me falling from it. The “small crimp” is just above my left hand. As stated above after finally sticking this small crimp I fell going to the larger flat edge shown directly above it. I don’t doubt I’m probably the ONLY climber in ALL of Wheaties history to FALL this close to the finish! Ahhh, story of my climbing career – falling from the last hold seems to be my trademark, haha.
Meanwhile Jen ticks off Meatmaker, v5 (a climb next to Wheaties) to pass the long boring rest time between all my go’s.
Brian attempting El Chupacabra Left, v10 as Paul jealously looks on
After the sun goes down the temps drop fast at Hueco in the winter. Without the luxury of a kitchen-equipped van, Jen and Brian brave the wind and cold over a coleman while Paul and I do our cooking inside our cozy warm van. To avoid complete van chaos with a guaranteed meltdown finale by either Ivan or Silas, we let the children watch a movie during dinner prep.
In Tucson for a rest week, Jen and I run up my favorite trail – Douglas Springs
and Oren has a birthday!
And then we’re back at Hueco
Checkin’ out aquatic life in the huecos,
loungin’ in the sun,
and climbing of course!
The “little crushers” (as a fellow climber dubbed the kids in passing) climbing on East Mountain’s Kid’s Stuff Wall
The first (crux) move of Hobbit in a Blender, v5
Which I send for the first time
and then Jen follows soon thereafter. Grrrrl power.
Silas reaches his limit after 2+ weeks of climbing and cozies up in a crazy creek for a 2 hour nap. I’m so not even joking.
Paul scopes the holds for me on Tri Hard, v4
and I give it a handful of tries. No send though. Too tired.
Oren impressing Ivan with his apple eating skills
Silas mow’ing PB&J
Ivan with his adopted mama. By the end of the trip he was going to Jen for his “all better” kisses after tripping or banging himself up. Sheesh!
Balance beam session
Brian eyeing up McBain, v8 while we all heckle him about how much he hates toe and heel hooks. C’mon dude, it’s Hueco! (and then he promptly shuts us all up by sending it next try, WITH the toe hook beta).
that are OBSESSED with climbing rocks!
posted by arr
This entry (Permalink) was posted on Sunday, December 15th, 2013 at 4:18 pm and is filed under Bouldering, Hueco Tanks-Texas. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response , or trackback from your own site.