Encore
Even though we may be the only vehicle in the parking lot, the Hueco season is not over yet for us. My forced rest turned out to be the right decision because I had an AMAZING weekend! Sex After Death, v8 is done!! As well as Smokin’ Sausage, v4 (a pumpy endurance climb in the Sausage Factory with somewhat of a committing topout due to a slab behind your head; a climb I had always been either too pumped or too chicken to complete), a flash of Weenie Roast, v4, a repeat of The Give, v3, a near send of the 4-star classic Star Power, v5, and a link through the crux moves of Mr. Serious, v8!!!!
Although I am quite pleased with my tick of Sex After Death, I am just as excited about my efforts on Mr. Serious. I had never tried this line before because I’d always been “saving it” for “someday when I’m a v8 climber.” I hadn’t planned on trying it this season for not only the reason just stated but also because it’s in a non-kid-friendly sort of place. The line is on a massive boulder that’s wedged between and under a couple other massive boulders with a steep sloping, polished landing provided by yet another massive boulder. It’s a pretty sweet place – without kids, that is. Trying it meant no spot, no one to move my pads, and no one to even be up there with me because Paul would have to be down at ground level with the kids. However, thanks to my extremely psyched and motivating Paul, I was eventually convinced that my current crimp strength and lockoff power is suited perfectly for Mr. Serious and we’d figure out the kid situation somehow. We always do. Turns out, Paul was right. Alone, I quickly figured out my beta and nailed the crux move (moving off the small slopey pocket) with ease. And once it was time for Ivan to nap on Paul in the carrier, we grabbed some books for Silas to keep him stationary and I was able to have the whole family safely up on the landing with me, cheering me on. It wasn’t nearly as crazy as I had envisioned all this time.
I’m extremely psyched because I know I can most likely tick this one next trip. My only regret is that I may have forfeited an opportunity to send it in a day. On the go that I nailed the crux with ease I had started one dinky move in because I was, what I thought, still working out my beta. I was only able to nail the crux just that one time. It being day 2, that was my window of power. Had I started with my right hand on the start hold, that very well could have been a send in a day! Aahh, how easy it is to succumb to a climber’s greed, haha.
Meanwhile, Paul continues to make slow yet steady progress on Nagual, v13. He also cleaned up sends of Mr. Smiley, v9, Serious Legends, v9, and Shroom, v9.
Send! The opening sequence of Sex After Death, v8
Sticking what was the crux move for me for many years. After this I just had make big moves and hold on
Getting set up for a suuuper fun drop knee move to get to the small slopey pocket on Mr. Serious, v8
Grabbing the small slopey pocket
Working out my beta. Left foot up to do the crux move out right or right foot up?
Tried the left foot a whole bunch of times (shown here), then decided to change it to a right foot which was when I stuck the move. See the crimps up and right – the first is an intermediate, the second is the money
Happy that my boys can join me up on the landing
A small scoop in the sloped landing proves perfect for a small bum
Photo sequence of Paul on Shroom, v9
Sticking the big move on Shroom. “Send it dad!” yells a tiny voice from below
Giving credit where credit’s due: I really think it’s the hauling of 4 pads and 2 kids to Nagual that’s making us stronger, not all of our training and Hueco projecting, haha
posted by arr
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on Monday, April 15th, 2013 at 2:04 pm and is filed under Bouldering, Hueco Tanks-Texas.
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