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On a Roll

Woohoo!!!!!!!!!!! Another low gravity weekend at Hueco! We’re on a roll people! 🙂 Thanks to cool temps and a whole lotta psyche we’ve got some more sends and significant progress to report. Here’s the weekend rundown:

Typically, Paul and I like to come up with a game plan for the weekend prior to arriving at the rocks. With kid-maintenance (i.e. diapers, feedings, playtime, kid-climb time, cry time, etc.) it’s awfully easy to get side-tracked or lazy and waste the day away at only one or two areas. We’ve found that having a game plan really helps us ‘force’ the day along. I suppose a more fitting term is a “mission,” haha. No, we’re not drill sergeants. We just try to hustle.

So this weekend the plan was:

– E. Mtn on Friday (so we would be rested and fresh to tick off Hector in a Blender, v7 and Liane, v11)

– E. Spur on Saturday (to project Better Eat Your Wheaties, v8 and Nagual, v13)

– North Mtn on Sunday (to work Bloody Flapper Traverse, v9 and Loaded Direct, v12).

But, the plan changed. Due to threatening wind advisories on Friday and Saturday and not wanting to repeat crawling down the East Mtn slabs in 40 mph wind gusts or sucking dust at the East Spur Maze yet another weekend, we decided to alter the plan. We’d play it safe and stay on North on Friday so we could easily bail if it got nasty and not feel guilty about giving up a tour day. We weren’t all that crazy about this decision because we soooo wanted to tick off our East Mtn projects. Delaying them to Saturday or Sunday meant having to try them tired – risky. But we were sick of the stupid wind. To our surprise, the altered plan turned out to be the best decision of the season!

We went to the Babyface Boulders to warm-up. I wanted to add some new warm-ups to my season tick list so we did a few no-star climbs. They were EXTREME “bottom of the barrel”. They were so bad I’ll never repeat them or recommend anyone ever try them: A v1 that I’m too lazy to go look up the name and Itty Betty, v2. Done.

Apparently, no-star bouldering really warms me up well because I then sat down in front of Daily Dick Dose, v7 and climbed it (a repeat, but a send nonetheless). After a few laps on Daily Paul then gets on his nemesis v11, Rogered in the Shower. Paul has been on this one on and off over the last year or so. It’s not stellar enough to make Day 1 priority so we’ve always come to it at the end of a weekend when he’s tired. He eats it up. Done.

From here we head down to my big long-term project, Bloody Flapper Traverse. Excited that the shoulder-y crux move of Daily felt so easy I decide to start at the beginning versus the soft jug before the first crux like I had planned in my ‘working it in reverse’ strategy. I’m greedy. Heck, why not?

No, I didn’t send, but I DID crush all the way to the final move. Four times. For those that had witnessed me falling at that last move back in 2010 pre-Ivan, I want to clarify that these go’s were way more promising. Pre-Ivan I would get to that last move completely gassed without any hope of sticking it. On these go’s I was literally ripping off, losing skin, holding that final hold for a couple milliseconds before my tension would fade and I would blow aggressively off. So close!! SOOO CLOSE!



Moving through the first crux on Bloody Flapper Traverse, v9

Before we called it a day Paul put some effort in on Loaded Direct and stuck the first move for the first time. Yey! And it ended up not being windy at all that day, haha.

Day 2. The forecast was still threatening severe winds so we opt for a snow-globe of sand at the East Spur Maze versus getting blown off the East Mtn slabs like kites with the kids. Again, the weather turns out to be absolutely stellar with hardly any wind at all! We warm up at Tabloid Pass. I add Dwarf Toss Tragedy, v2 and Amazing Little Halfboy, v5 to my ticklist while Paul runs laps on Sex After Death, v8. It’s a much needed naptime for Ivan and I’d like to try Better Eat Your Wheaties somewhat fresh so I volunteer to take naptime duty versus try Sex After Death and we head to Nagual, v13.

Paul gets on Nagual for the first time and is pleased. He does the first couple moves and almost the big move out left to the first good hold. We realize we need WAAAY more pads, or spotters, or both. Unfazed by how the heck we’re going to hump 5 pads and 2 kids out to this boulder in the future, he declares it his new obsession and decides to take a break from Crown of Aragorn, v13.



The opening moves of Nagual, v13

Next up is Better Eat Your Wheaties for me. I kinda feel like taking a nap! Man, am I tired and my arms feel wrecked. I re-warm back up and then try to pull on. Whoa. I’m totally spent from the previous day’s efforts. I try a handful of times more (each go progressively getting worse than the last) and then finally decide to take the rest of the day off to rest up for East tomorrow.

From here we move to Scream, v11. Paul gives it a whole lotta go’s but doesn’t send. Tired from Nagual, I’m sure.



Scream, v11

Day 3, East Mountain. Finally!! It’s showtime!! (Positive thinking, haha. We’re both EXHAUSTED from Days 1 and 2). We start at Warm Up Roof. Ivan is napping again so I let Paul take the stage. He warms up and sends Liane, v11. Done!



Paul sending Liane, v11

Now it’s my turn. We go to the North Dragon’s Den area and I hang around on some holds to warm up and then send Instant Classic, v3 followed by the adjacent Jerry’s Not Home, v4. I feel tired, oh no! Paul apparently has just enough juice left for a v9 and flashes Man Gum. Nice.



A not-so-impressive photo of Paul topping out Man Gum, v9

On to Hector in a Blender, v7. I’ve already got it in my head that there’s no way I can possibly send it today because I feel so shot and Paul and I start discussing plans to return the following weekend just for this climb. I give it a go and fall. Another go, another fall. I feel horrible! A third go, a third fall. I decide to rest, eat a snack and give it one last go. Regardless of it’s outcome, we’re going to head home after this one. We’re spent, the kids are getting cranky, I already feel satisfied with my amazing go’s on Bloody Flapper Traverse and it’s late afternoon. One last try. I pull on, grab the heinous crimp with my right hand, barely snatch the left hold, desperately snatch the right hold, climb up to my high point and…and…and…I GRAB IT! Well, technically I didn’t actually grab the hold…I grabbed a little to the right of the hold but went with it anyway. SEND!!! Wooohooooo!!!!!



Reaching up to the heinous crimp on Hector in a Blender, v7



Set up to move off the heinous crimp on Hector in a Blender, v7

That’s a wrap!

posted by arr

This entry (Permalink) was posted on Tuesday, March 12th, 2013 at 12:13 am and is filed under Bouldering, Hueco Tanks-Texas. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response , or trackback from your own site.

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