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Recent News

I have been the biggest climbing news junkie ever, the past few weeks. I figured I’d share some of my news sources so others can see how the sport of bouldering is getting pushed beyond the current limits, right now!

Cool Sites:
1. Ben Moon’s site
2. 8a
3. Jason Kehl’s site (Rules of Chaos is SICK!!!)
4. Hueco Rock Ranch

At Hueco, some of the best climbers in the world are currently attacking the classics and developing new lines. From my perspective it is amazing to be a part of the sport and be so close to the development of boulder problems that are pushing the limits of the existing rating scale! Fred Nicole claimed V15 on his stand-up problem Terre de Sienne next to Diaphanous Sea, V12. He then linked it from Diaphanous Sea! So, ovbiously it must be rated higher? Right? I thought I read V16 somewhere. Recently Dave Graham repeated the climb (just Terre de Sienne) and disagreed. I think he suggests V13/14 for Terre de Sienne. Unreal! It’s hard to dispute his claims since he recently did Fred’s other V15 testpiece (downgrading it too) and sent Esperanza, V14, in a day!!!

So is “From Dirt Grows The Flowers” the real V15 out there? (Dave Graham developed that one and says it’s the hardest he has done) Or when is Hueco going to get a real V15. We might see it soon when someone repeats the link from Diaphanous Sea into Terre de Sienne.

This entry (Permalink) was posted on Wednesday, February 8th, 2006 at 12:40 pm and is filed under Bouldering, Hueco Tanks-Texas. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.

3 Responses to “Recent News”

  1. jd Says:

    Did the young Moon ever respond to your post?
    I didn’t realize Fred Nicole was such a wuss with his grades. I guess he is French though…..

  2. Paul Says:

    I’m not making that particular conversation public.

    Fred Nicole is from Switzerland and is a good contender for being one of the best climbers ever, in my opinion. It must be hard to determine what something is graded after climbing it first. Only the few who can repeat his problems are the ones who can voice an opinion of how hard they think it is. They sometimes find different sequences which may be easier too.

  3. daschbachs Says:

    The name Nicole is Swiss?? That really does take ALL of the fun out of it. Damn.

    I’m I the only one who finds it ludicrous that people downgrade things from 15 to 14??? At that point it has to be so individual what is the point of voicing a strong opinion??? Having never completed a 6 I guess I shouldn’t talk. See you in April.

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