Our plan was to start into a summer of sport climbing and lessen the number of bouldering trips we take to once a month. Well…plans change. Last weekend ended just shy of an amazing finish to our almost every weekend of bouldering, for the year so far. Both April and I were so close to sending our newest projects we decided to reschedule our sport climbing and book more Hueco Tanks reservations for at least one, maybe two more weekends. April linked all the moves of “Baby Martini” V6, to the final crux. She reached the crux with almost no steam left and was faced with a huge throw to a sloping hueco. The move is hard for me but April, being smaller, must throw herself at full extension, keeping a toe hook in order to barely reach the “bad” part of the hold. She is able to do the problem in two parts but needs to train a tiny bit more to link the entire problem.
I gave “Theatre of the Absurd” V10, another series of sending attmpts. I realized that I must surpass a specific stage before I can send a problem near my upper limit. The stage that I’m speaking about is the perfection of all the subtile movements between segments of the entire boulder problem. I’ve been quoted recently saying, “I’ve done all the moves, therefore I’m ready to send.” But, last weekend was devoted to the stage of piecing all of the moves together, figuring out all of the efficient energy saving techniques so that when I return in two weeks I can successfully link all of the hard segments together and send, with style.
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