Another trip to Hueco last weekend gives me another big send to add to my ticklist! I did Mr. Serious, v8 first try of the day! Woohoo! This climb was the other biggie I had my sights set on this season. I was hoping I could clean it up quickly having just completed Better Eat Your Wheaties and thankfully I was right. Now I’ve got a nice chunk of time still this season to devote my attention back toward another long-standing project: Bloody Flapper Traverse, v9.
I’m not greedy, just motivated! I swear! 😉
Mr. Serious, v8. Done.
And now let me bring you up to date on Paul’s climbing. He’s been ramping up very slowly since January in attempt to take care of the finger, climbing with “the brakes on” and choosing his problems wisely so as to ease back into the small crimping. Brakes on and all, he’s managed to impress me with the climbs he’s pulled off (which can be hard to do after 11+ years of climbing together, hehe).
Two weeks ago he did Sub Zero, v11, a compression climb next to Glas Roof that lives up to it’s cold and windy name…bring your puffy if you’re ever asked to spot someone on this one, brrr! Anyway, in classic “Paul-style” when it comes to the easier double digits, he projected it one day and then came back and sent it the very next day. Not bad.
Paul ticking off Sub Zero, v11
This last weekend though I think Paul’s send of Scream, v10 (the stand) trumped mine of Mr. Serious (even though I opened this post writing all about me, me, me. Ah, the risk you run when you let your wife do all the talking, hehe). Scream is one of those climbs that packs a heck of a punch in just a couple of moves. It’s hard. It was a climb that Paul had tried last season and failed. Note, I wrote ‘LAST’ season, as in LAST season when he was climbing pretty darn strong, cleaning up a new boulder problem a day it seemed and making progress on Nagual, v13. LAST season, he couldn’t do it. And now THIS season, having taken the majority of last summer and the fall off from climbing and only just getting back into it a mere 2 months ago, he sends it! Go figure. Actually, we did go and figure. We thought about it long and hard on the drive home. And the conclusion that we came to was that all that front-lever and planche training he was doing during the time he wasn’t able to climb really paid off for a climb like Scream. Scream didn’t require crimp strength…just pure core and shoulder power. Cross-training….yeah baby. 🙂
Paul balled up (look at the location of his feet!) and sending Scream, v10
So what does Paul have his sights set on for the remainder of the season? Well, unfortunately the finger issue is not 100% resolved. The harder he tries climbing on crimps, the more the pain starts to creep back in. He’s now scheduled for 6 weeks of physical therapy. In the meantime, his interest is in more non-crimpy boulder problems. He tried The Flame, v12 last weekend and has it mostly worked out. I’m thinkin we’ll probably go back.
Faced with the crux of The Flame, v12
And finally, what’s a good climbing-status post without cute photos of the bambinos? Here ya go…enjoy!
posted by arr
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