apAdventures

I wish I had something exciting to say about this would-be exciting day. But by the time this day is over, I’m not so sure we’ll be more than a few hundred miles off the Atlantic coast, stateside! I’m sitting here in the big tin can on the New York City JFK tarmac…waiting, waiting…and even more waiting for liftoff.

“What is going ON? We should riot,” we overhear from a few seats ahead. ‘Pajama Man,’ we call him, because he went into the plane’s bathroom wearing jeans and came out wearing pajama pants, prepared for a long journey of going nowhere apparently.

We’ve been delayed for almost six hours now and still counting. First, air conditioning mechanical troubles, then zero visibility rain storm, and now here we sit, plane number fifty (we were number 5 but JFK air traffic control switched the direction of the runway and we went to nearly the end of the line) in the takeoff line.

excerpt from April’s journal, dated Tuesday July 22nd, 2008

We’ve spent this last week in April’s home town of Marathon, New York. Small town USA. No Internet, no cell phone reception and…….no electricity or running water (just kidding). Here are a few pics of April’s home that her parents built (still building):

Where April grew up: Marathon, New York

Since we’ve been away from our home in Tucson for so long, missing those home improvement projects, we decided to embark upon one of the many unfinished projects of April’s parents home. As I mentioned, April’s parents built this place with their bare hands. A huge undertaking over the past 25+ years! About 15 years ago, April’s parents salvaged this hardwood floor from a gymnasium in Binghamton, New York. It has remained unfinished since…until yesterday:

Original gymnasium floor

First pass with the sander

Final pass with the sander

Finished floor

In between the floor project, gardening, walks and runs in the woods, and plenty of Mom’s good home cooking, we filled our days with lots of hugs and kisses from our little nieces, Carley (3) and Lillian (2).

Carley and Lillian

Sorry for the short entry. We are in a rush, trying to make the best use of our Internet time here in an Ithaca coffee shop. We are just finishing up our last to-dos before we catch our flight tomorrow. The BIG flight(s). Stay tuned for our next post – from the southern hemisphere…

posted by pjv

Do you know where the toothbrush was invented? West Virginia of course. If it had been invented anywhere else it would have been called the teethbrush.

I first heard that joke ten years ago while top-roping at Coopers. A West Virginia local delivered that joke to my Dad and me and then smiled ear to ear. I couldn’t resist staring into his mouth and I quickly counted how few teeth he actually had. I guess since he had more than one tooth he felt comfortable telling it. As I started to climb I think he continued telling similar jokes. My mind was clouded with banjo music and a sense of wanting to escape, to flee up the rock. I think the climb I was doing was called “stop and go.” I would have named it Deliverance.

At the time, after having just started climbing outside, I was convinced that Coopers Rock was where IT was at. The cutting edge of climbing. My goal was to tick off every top rope climb that was offered and maybe even establish something new. I vaguely recall setting up an anchor and looking over the cliff edge and noticing Brian and Jen (who would later become great friends of mine) walking past the amazing top rope climbs with their crashpads. I was intrigued at what they were doing. I figured they were missing out on the real classics of Coopers and sure enough they would be back and in line to try one of my top rope projects.

Once I realized that I wasn’t getting any better at the Coopers Rock top ropes and I wasn’t establishing any ground breaking first ascent top rope classics, I purchased a membership at the climbing gym in Pittsburgh. After climbing in the gym for about a month Brian told me to ditch the socks (the big white socks I wore with my climbing shoes) and get over on the bouldering wall (I had been traversing and climbing on the top rope walls in the gym with a friend). I started to get to know the Pittsburgh crew of climbers. They talked about sport climbing at a place called The New River Gorge and taking vacations to go bouldering in Bishop. I expected them to talk more about Coopers and the wonderful top roping potential. I later learned that where IT was at was somewhere far from what Coopers had to offer.

Over the years I got to experience the amazing sport climbing at the New River Gorge and took less and less trips to Coopers to top rope. I learned a lot from the fun top ropes but they could not compare to the aesthetics and quality of the New River climbs. Back in 2001, two friends of mine from the gym invited me to go bouldering at Coopers for a day. I thought back to the top ropes I was familiar with and realized that Coopers might have more to offer for me. I realized that I had come to a new level in my climbing and could take on new challenges in a place I love.

The day I went bouldering at Coopers for the first time was one of the best climbing days ever. My friends and I had a blast. I returned to Coopers plenty of times after that day and learned of many new challenges and climbs I never knew existed in a place I was so familiar with.

Last Thursday April and I, along with our friends Jason, Kathy, Karl and (baby) McKenna toured the boulders once again. As I passed the old top ropes I realized that 12 years had passed since I first started climbing there. I reflected on all the fun I had with my Dad climbing top ropes, hoping to develop the most ground breaking line Coopers had to offer and meeting the local West Virginia good old boys. I missed those times but I also realized I’ve come a long way from those days.

I’m glad to come back to the place where I started and be able to have as much fun with people I love. Thursday was another day to add to my list of best climbing days ever, thanks to Coopers Rock, WV.

Karl warming up on Tilted Tree Slab v0

Karl cruising Visitation v2

Paul sending the 4-star classic Twist Dah Hick v5

April sending Tilted Tree Arete v3

Jason slappin’ Bitch Slap Arete v5

posted by pjv

Not much to report in terms of climbing now that we’re in Pittsburgh but there is plenty of fun to be had. Last night we went to PNC park and saw the Pittsburgh Pirates play the Houston Astros. It was a blast even though we only got to see about 4 innings before a huge rain storm blew in. We waited around for a little and then gave up. The game actually continued some time near 11PM and finished after 1AM. The Pirates made a come back and won 4 to 3. Way to go bucs.

Normal Pittsburgh skies. Who would have thought it would rain?

A few dark clouds blew in

Then the heavy rain started

Game delayed

Time to evacuate

posted by pjv

“What’s the furthest you’ve ever hiked for bouldering?”

My father asked me this question last week. And last week I responded with a reference to a heinous approach in Joshua Tree, California to an area called The Underground. If my memory serves me correctly, I think I remember this approach taking about an hour, with about 1000 feet of elevation gain, and quite a bit of scrambling. Last week, this was my answer.

This week however, I have a new answer. Mt. Evans baby. A new record has been set for Paul and I. THIS is the furthest we’ve ever hiked for bouldering. Our heinous approach record (for bouldering) has been re-established not only by distance, but more importantly: oxygen-deprived elevation. We visited both Area A and Area D of Mt. Evans, and sheesh….my legs are still sore!

Area A took us about 1.5 hours to hike into, around 3-4 miles I think, topping out somewhere around 11,000 feet. The boulders were, as promised, amazing and beautiful and remote. The Dali Wall is probably the sweetest 45 we’ve ever laid our tips on. Area D on the other hand, is waaaay the heck up there. Instead of hiking up to the boulders, like Area A, you set off from a trailhead at 13,100 feet and hike down to the boulders at 11,750 feet. The trail isn’t all that long, just steep! And dang, it sure makes a difference having to hike up at the end of a climbing day, versus getting rewarded with a hike down. Area D holds the ultimate MEGA classic The Nothing v8.

I would guess (or secretly hope, actually) that most boulderers would write these areas off as “too far”, “too much work”, or “too tiring.” I say the word ‘guess’, because it has been our experience that most boulderers are lazy, haha. Yeah, I’m talkin’ to YOU. I say the word ‘hope’ though, because I’d love for these remote boulders to remain just that, remote….quiet…..peaceful. While we were up there, we saw just one other climber. Quite a special treat for these two anti-social climbers.

Mt. Evans marks the end of this Colorado portion of the trip for Paul and I. Having spent the majority of our time up in RMNP, we only had a couple of days at Evans. I’m tempted to say we regret not spending more time at Evans because it turned out to be soooo soooo good. But I can’t say we regret anything at all. RMNP was awesome. And, Evans is awesome too. And, well….pretty much all Colorado rock in general is awesome. And for this reason, as we trek across the state of Kansas towards Pittsburgh, Sportsmobile humming along, Paul and I entertain the thought of making a quick stop at Evans, later on in this 6 month adventure, after our muscles have been honed in Rocklands, South Africa. Ooooo, the daydreams…..of blasting out that 1.5 hour hike, lacing up our rock shoes under the Dali Wall, and climbing that Colorado granite face to its top.

Mt. Evans, Colorado, Area A

Paul on the problem The Dali v9 on the Dali Wall, Area A

Paul on No More Greener Grass v12, The Dali Wall

Paul at the top of Mt. Evans

Goats at the top of Mt. Evans

Area D

Unknown name/rating, Area D

Unknown name/rating, Area D

The Nothing v8, Area D

Area D

Morgan

posted by arr from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Here is a little tease. Mt. Evans bouldering is awesome!

Paul: unknown name/rating

Holly sending a super fun climb: unknown name/rating

Paul sending The Dali v9

posted by pjv

We’re up here in RMNP again. This time for a 3 day onslaught. Yesterday climbing, today resting, tomorrow climbing.

Today’s rest day included a hike and chess. We hiked the Flat Top Mountain trail (towards Flat Top mountain). Got a late start (of course, cause it’s a rest day, duh!) so had to deal with the afternoon thunderstorms…which ended up turning us around before the summit. Well, that and the 2+ feet of snow up there. Regardless, we got a great vista of Dream Lake from above and Chaos Canyon from afar – awesome perspective compared to being right on top of these areas when bouldering.

The chess portion of the day was awesome as well – cause it was my first time ever playing!! Woohoo, this trip is educational! I kicked Paul’s butt. Ok, just kidding. I got slaughtered, haha

Campsite 102 at Moraine Park, RMNP

View of Bierstadt Lake from Flat Top Mountain Trail, RMNP

View of Longs Peak from Flat Top Mountain Trail at the Dream Lake vista, RMNP
Bear Lake, RMNP

posted by arr from the Coffee on the Rocks coffee shop in Estes Park, CO

Joe bought a long board last week. And on our way down into Nederland (cutsey little hippie town in the mountains above Boulder), he decided to try it out for the first time. Steep mountain roads + first time long boardin’ = yikes! But as we all know, Joe is badass in just about everything he attempts. He cruised into Ned like a mountain-boy native.

Later on that evening, Holly and Joe held a little party at their place with us, Jed and Rachel from upstairs, Joe’s brother Mike and girlfriend Emily, and THE one and only….Courtney Phillips. Courtney, our dear friend whom now is a Salt Lake local, was in Boulder for the weekend visiting friends. After numerous failed-attempt, bad reception cell phone calls, we finally got a hold of that boy and got his butt up here to party with us. We haven’t seen Courtney since last spring in Fontainebleau, France. So needless to say, we all had a great time….boozin’ up and catchin’ up. Whiskey tastes so much yummier up here in the mountains.

Joe cruisin’ into Ned on his new mountain board

Holly rockin’ a sun dress on Joe’s new mountain board

posted by arr

We thought two rest days would be plenty of time to recover and come back to RMNP and crush our harder problems. Well, we thought wrong. When we attempted to warm up yesterday it was clear, we need a lot more rest.

Our initial attack on the park throughout the week left us dead tired. On one of the climbing days last week I got carried away trying to send Tommy’s Arete v8 (at Emerald Lake). Its style is very different from what April and I are used to. It is a sloping arete requiring compression and technical moves. After climbing primarily on steep crimps this one took a toll on my body. On my first go from the bottom I climbed all the way up, past the hardest moves and then got stuck. I should have tried the last few moves but I was too excited. I dropped off, worked the moves and was sure I’d send next go. About 20 tries later I still didn’t celebrate the send. I did however dial every little perfection out of the climb because each attempt left me more and more tired, unable to reach my high point. After squeezing the arete for a long long time I had to call it quits. I was so tired that evening I almost fell asleep cooking dinner and afterwards I could barely lift my arm to brush my teeth.

Paul on Tommy’s Arete v8

April was battling Real Large v9 during the time I sessioned Tommy’s Arete. She was trying to believe that one of the crux moves was possible for her (it certainly looked possible based on how incredibly close she was). April kept falling short of the good portion of the hold trying to figure a way to get about another inch or so of distance. She and I couldn’t think of any other way to complete the move. Her final decision was to put that climb on hold for the day and try the sit start to The Kind v6.

April on The Kind – Sit v6

Yesterday we decided it is definitely time to rest. We were expecting to destroy our well rehearsed climbs but they still felt hard. We managed to send but we’ll have to wait a few days to get back to our main projects.

posted by pjv

On a 29 degree afternoon back in October of last year April, myself and Joe set out on a journey to find the Emerald lake boulders. The freezing temperatures didn’t phase us at first. We eagerly had our gear packed and were heading up up up on the trail. The trail leaves the Bear Lake parking lot at an elevation of 9475ft and eventually reaches Emerald Lake at around 10,080ft. For the fact that the overall elevation gain is 605ft you better be psyched from the beginning because this area is not for the roadside bouldering fans. This area is for the climber who seeks adventure, wants to experience the endless beauty of RMNP, and who is in search of hidden super classic boulders.

Having said that, the hike is actually the best form of warming up and getting the blood flowing. By the time we found the main boulder, called The Kind boulder, we were ready to go. Well…at least for the first 5 minutes. Joe checked his watch (which included a thermometer) and said, “The temperature is dropping. I’m reading 32….(a half hour later)…uh…now it’s 29.”

Our “warm up” consisted of one climb called The Girlfriend Problem. We quickly moved to the ultra classic The Kind v5. After one go we all felt the effects of the frigid cold. We were quickly loosing the feeling in our fingers and toes but still had some positive energy to keep trying The Kind. Now that I think about it I probably sucked all that positive energy from Joe and April because I was the only one who sent. I raved about how the climb was one of the best v5s I had ever done. “Better than Dragonfly at Hueco!” They looked at me somewhat pissed and said, “dude, if it was just a little bit warmer and we could feel our fingers we would definitely send.” I agreed! They were both so close.

Well, now for revenge. Today April and I headed back to The Kind boulder and in between a couple quick rain showers April topped out and said, “Yep, that climb is one of the best v5s ever.

Better than Hueco’s Dragonfly? That’s a pretty darn strong statement. I knew Dragonfly was April’s ultimate favorite. But, she agreed. The Kind is super classic.

April on The Kind v5 at Emerald Lake, RMNP

posted by pjv from The Kind Coffee shop in Estes Park, CO