apAdventures » Bouldering

Fall in Tucson

October 10th, 2010

Finally, after a brutal summer the temperatures are reasonable again in Tucson. We’ve tried every method of training possible to stay in shape over the last few months and it’s been tough. With the last few weeks still in the triple digits motivation has been low. However, now the evening temps are cool and the woody is near prime. Let’s just hope it stays fall-like in Tucson.




posted by pjv

Labor Day in Flag

September 12th, 2010

We headed up to our old stomping grounds last weekend for the long weekend, Priest Draw in Flagstaff, AZ. The mission was 3 days of hard bouldering on the limestone roofs. The reality was only 2 days of bouldering (whew! those pockets!) followed by a “rest day” summit bid of Mt. Humphreys.

Yah, rest day, haha. The original intent was just a nice little walk up the Mt. Humphrey’s trail with little Silas and Morgan. Just a couple miles, short and easy, and when we got tired we’d just turn around. We weren’t even all that prepared to be out hiking in the first place. We had no formal footwear (just our chacos), we didn’t have Silas’ big, bad Sherpani hiking backpack (just the little ergobaby carrier, primarily reserved for short grocery store jaunts), and once again we found ourselves without Morgan’s backpack so that she could carry her own water (reference The Playpen (34.5lbs) Goes to Maple…). Oh yeah, and it was well past noon and we had planned to be back home in Tucson (4 hours away) at some sort of reasonable hour.

I’m sure you all already know where this story is headed. You’ve heard it from us before. And shouldn’t be surprised. Yeppers, so in typical apAdventures style, no more than 20 minutes into the uphill slog, we declared we were going for at least the saddle below the summit. After all, it’s just a “hike.” It’s not like we’re trying to summit the North Face of the Eiger or something.

So Paul, myself, baby Silas and brown dog Morgan trudged uphill in our sandals all the way to the saddle in between Humphreys and Agassiz at 11,800 feet. The hike turned out to be quite pleasant and not as insane as originally imagined (or intended, haha). I’ll admit though, we were a bit weary of popping out above treeline onto the saddle in front of the Labor Day hordes with a little 10 month old in tow: the crazies strike again. But those thoughts quickly vanished as we rounded the saddle and saw another couple posing for pictures with a 2 year old and a 4 month old. Amusingly, the mother immediately acknowledged our presence as a confirmation that she too was not crazy.



Paul and Silas at the Priest Draw boulders



Silas loving the green stuff



Our campsite up on Mt. Humphreys



Fueling up for the day



Resting between go’s



Getting a power-spot from dad on Floor Pie, v7



Discussing beta



Now dad’s turn on Lolita, v10. Beta sequence.





Silas isn’t impressed







Chillin’ by the fire after a hard day of climbing



Let’s hike!



The saddle. Note Silas’ disappointment that we decided against the full summit.



The whole family at the saddle. Morgan too – she’s just off making friends with the other hikers.



Another saddle shot and the view of the Mt. Humphreys summit



Pit stop on the trail



Playing with dirt above 11,000 feet….



…is fun!



Boulder field on the trail. On a good day you can see the Grand Canyon.



Morgan posing for the camera, again pleased that she didn’t need to carry her own backpack

Posted by arr

Hueco Season Re-Cap

May 13th, 2010



Silas giving mama a High Five for a Hueco season well done

Well, we are officially finished with Hueco for the season. Some really nice cool temps stretched just barely into May this year, which was a treat. And our grand finale was a ~2 week vacation with our good friends Jen & Brian and their little climbers Seb (6 years) and Oren (4). A first-time Hueco trip for them, all the way from Pittsburgh. Showing newbees the classics is just so fun.

Overall, both Paul and I are extremely pleased with this year’s season, especially given our latest family addition. A lot of people have been asking me if I’m surprised at how quickly I got back into shape. No, I’m not surprised. But I reason it’s because I have an overly ambitious (and most of the time, completely unreasonable!) mentality when it comes to climbing. “v10 by fall? Heck yeah!” (I’ve been convinced of that for about 2 years now, haha). I don’t really seem to get too bummed out when I don’t reach my goals, and I get damn strong trying, so it all works out. 🙂

As for Paul, he’s just been demonstrating his regular strong-Paul-self. Who would have guessed that taking most of last summer and all of the fall off from climbing on real rock outside would have fueled him to accomplish his biggest season’s ticklist ever?! Go figure. Cause I haven’t yet. Perhaps he can thank P.T.A. (“Pain, Torture, & Agony” training).

So let’s tally our highlights, shall we?

Me:
* Repeat of Nobody Here Gets Out Alive, v2 in December, Silas’ 2nd month old
* Repeat of Skimmer, v3 in January, Silas’ 3rd month
* Repeat of Lithologic, v4 and Be Flat, v4 at Silas’ 4th month
* Repeat of Lobster Claw, v5 at Silas’ 5th month
* Repeat of Namedropper, v3
* King Cobra, v6 at Silas’ 6th month
* Gums, v2
* Repeat of Schadenfraud, v5
* New Religion, v7 in May, Silas’ 7th month!!!

Paul:
* Repeat of Left Martini, v10
* Dean’s Journey, v10
* The Governator, v10
* Full Service, v10
* Power of Silence, v10
* Free Willy, v10
* Repeat of Loaded with Power, v10
* Flying Marcel, v10
* El Techo de los Tres B, v11
* Schwerer Gustav, v11
* Diaphanous Sea, v12
* Barefoot on Sacred Ground, v12

This list will be fun to look back on someday. 🙂 And finally, I’ll share some end of the season pics. Beware, “Silas Cuteness” contained in the following:



Jen’s send of the v3 country classic Sign of the Cross



Brian showing off in front of the fam on Daily Dick Dose, v7
.



Jen’s turn to show off. Daily Dick Dose, v7



Silas chillin’ in the campground



Paul and Silas on the top of North Mountain



Father & son



Paul entertaining the kids



The kids: Seb & Oren



Silas in the trees



Brian working Glass Roof, v9



Seb & Oren goofin’ around



Seb showing daddy how it’s done



Jen trying New Religion, v7



More Seb & Oren cause they’re so darn cute



Jeff & Raquel cruisin’ on Jeff’s super cruiser



The Hueco locals: Jeff, Mike, Raquel, me, Silas, and Paul

posted by arr

V7 Ahead of Schedule

May 3rd, 2010

If you’ve ever climbed with us you’ve heard us say, “One more try…” Well, we made one more trip to Hueco this last weekend and “one more try” is all it took for April to tick off her next goal. April’s goal is one V-grade per month as Silas grows. Congratulations to April for ticking New Religion, v7. Now v8??? The clock is ticking…

A recap of our season at Hueco and some more highlights still to come…



April getting her feet setup on New Religion, v7



Hands setup for the crux dyno



Going big



Still going…



Stuck!

To all those who say the season was already over…they should have been at Hueco yesterday. On May 2nd we were dressed for winter weather and some crisp sending conditions. I ended our rampage with a send of Flying Marcel, v10!!!



Me, moving along the traverse on Flying Marcel, v10



Linking into Babyface



On the way to sending. btw my fingers were frozen at this point. It was soooo cold



My buddies all bundled up

Posted by pjv

V6 at 6 Months

April 5th, 2010

This is a long standing project for April which she can finally add to her tick list. Congratulations!

Click on the picture to play the King Cobra video

Posted by pjv

Proud Send

March 29th, 2010

My friend Raquel got the proudest send of the weekend when she mastered the crimp challenge of See Sharp, v6. This climb travels up a beautiful wave feature on some very bad crimps. It doesn’t look that hard but I dare anyone to try it. Just try it. Go ahead. It’s sharp and with the slightest imbalance you’ll find yourself standing on the ground crying in pain. It takes technique, balance and strong fingers to tolerate the sharp crimps. If you can master those elements then you’ve got yourself a proud send.

Click on the picture to play the See Sharp video

Posted by pjv

More Classics

March 22nd, 2010

April is secretly working some projects so no major ticks to report from her end just yet. She is busy cleaning diapers this week since I won our little weekend bet. Here are some of the points I scored to win:

I can’t convey how big this send is for me. I’ve worked this thing on and off for a long time but never got serious. Over the last few weekends I got serious and I got it! Another four star classic, ticked.



Power of Silence, v10

This one went down quick. I knew when I figured out the moves late last Sunday it would be a matter of coming back fresh. And, that’s all it took. A nice roof with a bunch of powerful moves. My favorite style.



El Techo De Los Tres B, v11



My buddy doing baby crunches getting ready to send



In-between climbing play time. Life is perfect.



Grab the crimp. Free Willy, v10



Go!!! Free Willy, v10



GOOOOO!!!! Free Willy, v10



Soooo close. Free Willy, v10

This is why it’s addicting. This is where I ended late on Sunday. I’ve never been able to reach the finish hold. Now…it’s sending time. Can’t wait to go back.



My buddy checking out the texture

posted by pjv

Hardman Classics Pt. 2

March 19th, 2010

Next up is Dragonfly, v5. Congratulations to Tom on the flash! Have a nice weekend…

Click on the picture to play the Dragonfly video

Posted by pjv

Hardman Classics Pt. 1

March 18th, 2010

For starters, the climb called Full Service on the Hardman Rock is described by the Hueco guidebook as a mega-classic. It’s been over 3 years since we’ve gone on a tour to the East Mountain area of Hueco so I figured it was time to add this one to my tick list. I knew the beta and feeling stronger than ever, I pulled on and slipped off….whoops! Then I pulled on and sent! It may be my favorite v10 ever. You can hear Silas cheering for me in the background, or he was just excited because the trees were blowing. Probably both. Enjoy.

More to come…

Click on the picture to play the Full Service video

posted by pjv

Trip Report Coming

March 16th, 2010

The “crew” went to Hueco this weekend. The sending was insane. Trip report coming soon. …with video!