Merry Christmas from Pennsylvania and New York
December 30th, 2014Holiday Roadtrip
December 20th, 2014Since we moved to Tucson 11 years ago we’ve traveled home to our eastern family and friends for Christmas every year except one, when Silas was a newborn. This year’s traveling is a bit different than all the rest though. We’re DRIVING! The money tree I’ve got growing in the garden didn’t quite produce the small fortune it now costs us to fly east, being a family of four with no kids under 2 years of age anymore. So van travel it is!
And wow, is this the life. All the legroom we want. Seats that fully recline. Fresh air with a mere crack of the window. Flexibility to stop and pee and stretch and sleep and fill up on coffee whenever we feel like it. A layover at a world class climbing gym along the journey to put in a quick training session. Waaaaay better snack selection. And the freedom to talk like robots without people looking at us weird. đ Holiday van travel rocks!!!!
See you in Pittsburgh!
posted by arr
Two Weeks at Hueco
December 1st, 2014It’s that time of year again to climb with our Pittsburgh buds at Hueco!  Similar to last year, we coordinated our trip over Thanksgiving…a blissful 2 full weeks with excellent temps, minimal crowds and plenty of strong psyche and sends.  Here is a re-cap in photos:

Sunset on our first day, North Mountain

Silas the plane

Paul still trying to perfect the handstand

…until one of the kids knock him down, wanting to play

Seb and Oren being goofy

Me sending a short yet powerful little v8 called Mystery Knobber early in the trip

Bucket bath!

Chillin’ in a Starbucks parking lot on a rest day

Ticking off a 4-star classic I’ve walked by a hundred times in the East Spur Maze and never touched, Slim Pickins, v5

Seb’s perch for a good read

Thumbs up for a Jingus Bells, v5 repeat

Our hero of the trip: Jen! Here she is sending Better Eat Your Wheaties, v8 after only a couple days of work. Awesome!!!!!!

On the same day immediately following Jen’s send of Wheaties Paul ups his game too and completes The Focus, v10

…and then another v10 for good measure, Dead Serious

The children too are having fun

Silas makes music out of a couple of sticks

Seb reads and Oren plays out yet another adventure with his yucca-stalk sword

An East Mountain tour and everyone sends! Starting with Jen’s flash of Ides of March, v6

…followed by my send of one of the more burly v4’s at Hueco, Tri Hard

…continued with Brian’s fast work of Julio and Me, v9

…and finished off with Paul’s tick of Sunshine, v11!

The grownups’ enthusiasm is apparently contagious

The four little rascals

LOVE these kind of days when everyone sends!

And now we can celebrate by indulging in our Thanksgiving feast

This year’s wholesomely homemade Thanksgiving menu: mushroom lentil mash with cranberry chutney, raw kale salad with root vegetables and maple-candied pecans, potatoes with arugula pesto, brussels sprouts with bacon, applesauce, pickled okra, a loaf of whole wheat seeded Barrio Bread from Don the Baker in Tucson, and a store-bought pumpkin pie. Ok make that 2 store-bought pumpkin pies. đ

Now time for a West Mountain Tour. The infamous starry-eyed man pictograph

Cleanin’ up the classics: another 4-star v5 that I’d never done, Star Power

…and conveniently Paul also sends his adjacent line on the Star Power Roof, Unfinished Symphony, v10

A neat bird’s nest on the 100 Proof Roof

Jen sends her long-standing project from last season, Mexican Chicken, v6

And Brian adds Double Vision, v7 to his tick list

Silas and Oren on a “diving board” over a bathtub-sized Hueco
And for every climb and grin and send shown above there were two, three, four times more! We all had such a great trip. Paul, Silas, Ivan and I were definitely saddened to see our dear Pittsburgh friends drive east at the end of it all.
posted by ARR
Forcing It
November 5th, 2014“We force it.”
On more than one occasion I have used this response when asked about how we manage to climb with kids. My response is just as vague and open-ended as the question usually. Sure we’ve learned a few lessons and tricks along the way for keeping our children happy, rested, fed, safe, warm, etc. at the rocks. But for the most part, ‘forcing it’ has been our most common and successful course of action.
For Paul and I, giving up climbing is simply not an option (and I’m not even going to attempt to go into the ‘why’ of this statement cause we’d be here all day and then some). We will climb as long as we’re physically capable and that’s just the way it is. From our perspective, the choice is crystal clear: We’re either climbers or we’re not. We either finish this drive to the crag or we turn around and go home. We either haul our gear and kids to the rocks or we sit at the campsite all day. We either send this rock climb now or never. ‘Forcing it’ by our definition typically entails an extreme amount of patience, an outstanding ability to tune out distraction, a rock solid tolerance to withstand pure and utter misery, and just a smidge of silliness to make light of the worst possible situation imaginable. Lucky for us there are two of us, so when one falters the other can maintain course. No, we’re not superheros. We’re just two people that happen to be completely obsessed with climbing some rocks. And here’s a classic example of just that:
Paul sending Jewel Thief v10 on Mt. Lemmon a few weekends ago. Make sure your audio is on. đ
Jewel Thief from Paul Vollmer on Vimeo.
Posted by arr
A Hueco Halloween
November 3rd, 2014Costumes, pumpkin carving and good boulders to climb. What better way to spend a holiday?!

This year’s ideas: A crow and a crocodile. Thankfully these costumes were mostly hot glue and only a bit of hand-stiching. I’m afraid of what ideas they’ll come up with for next year. I really must get my sewing machine fixed!


Crow versus crocodile. Who do you suppose will win?

And to round out this party, me as Silas’ witch and Paul as Crocodile Dundee, Ivan’s crocodile wrestler



Good ‘ol Site 12 at Hueco

Pouring over their whole 5 pieces of candy each. (Shhh, they don’t yet know that other kids fill up pillowcases with the stuff on Halloween!)

(Silas starts school next year….they’ll know soon enough)

(and this mostly candy-free holiday will be no more) đ

A “starry-eyed man” rock art replication and “a happy guy with crow eyes”

No open flames allowed at Hueco so we improvised with battery operated candles. To our delight not only did the candles flicker and actually look like real fire once inside the pumpkins, but it was so windy that day a candle never would have stayed lit anyway

At home sitting under a boulder and playing in the dirt

Paul testing out his post-surgery finger on Unfinished Symphony v10. So far so good!


No, not another dirt-eating episode – we’re well beyond that (thank goodness!) Just getting a little too cozy in the dirt while drooling and pushing around his trucks.

Silas finding more fall foliage. This time NOT poison ivy!

Me on the opening move of Nuns & Donkeys v6. Yeah muscles.

Cuteness

and more cuteness
Happy Birthday 5 Year Old
October 20th, 2014Last week Silas turned FIVE YEARS OLD! Yes, FIVE. Can you believe it?! I can’t. No, really, I’m serious, I seriously can’t believe it. Four was still kinda-sorta-toddler. When one says ‘he’s four’ phrases like ‘awe, so cute’ and ‘what big boy you are!’ follow. Five though, is just so…big kid. When one says ‘five’ words like ‘school’ and ‘kindergarten’ and talk of ‘school bus rides all by himself without mama or dad’ coming spewing out! In gymnastics, the five year old mark is where the kids transition out of the coed-preschool class. He’ll now be in what’s called the “Beginning and Intermediate Boys Recreational Gymnastics Class!” I mean, some stores stop at size 4T. I’m finding myself now browsing the Boy’s Clothing department! This is serious! This IS SO big kid!
Ok, enough of this mama’s rant. Let’s calm ourselves. Let’s instead talk about Silas and truly what a big kid he is now. This is why I shouldn’t be in such disbelief that he is now five years old:
Silas can ride a two-wheeler bike, all by himself. He can jump in and swim across the pool, all by himself. He can wake up, walk to his dresser, pick out clothes and put them on, all by himself. He can take a box of legos and a set of instructions and build a helicopter or a plane or a bulldozer, with every piece in it’s assigned place, all by himself. He can play a harmonica, reading songs from a book or better yet making up his own. He can count. He knows his letters backwards and forwards. He can spell and write his own name. He can even dial 911 in an emergency…or so we’ve rehearsed at least. Silas is a dreamer, a planner and a do-er. His little brain is continuously at work thinking about what adventure he’s going to dive into next. He is excellent at follow-through. We sometimes find ourselves nodding without fully listening to Silas’ extravagant plans…like say if we’re busy trying to have an adult conversation or talking on the phone, or trying to make dinner, etc. This is dangerous….oh so dangerous. Cause Silas will hold us to it. Be it the tree fort he’s going to build in the backyard, complete with a list of materials needed from Lowes and a diagram of his vision. Or the tea party he has planned for our imaginary pet Water Dog. He’ll spend an entire morning “baking scones,” “setting the table,” and “calling all Water Dog’s friends so they can attend the party.” One time, Paul, Ivan and I were invited. Silas had planned a storytelling after our tea. Sure enough, when all the tea was slurped we sat down around Silas and he told this fascinating tale of a lost bear looking for his mother. Nevermind that it was past bedtime. He said he was going to do a storytelling and gosh darn it we’re doing it. His most recent notable brainstorm of a plan was formed about a week and a half into our anniversary trip. While tucking him into his sleeping bag one cold night in Colorado he announced what he was going to do as soon as we got back home. He was going to build a bridge with his legos. He must have talked about this plan at least 50 more times before we finally made it home, describing how big it was going to be, how it was to be supported, what it was going to connect, etc. And sure enough, no sooner did we unbuckle his car seat in our driveway did he race into the house, open his lego box and get to work. He would not rest until it was complete.
We get quite the kick out of this little guy. Or shall I say, this BIG little guy. Keep dreamin’ boy. We’ve got a million adventures ahead of us together. Happy 5th Birthday to you, Silas!





posted by arr
Destinations #8, 9 & 10
October 13th, 2014As predicted back when we decided to spend an extra day at Joeâs Valley, we found ourselves having to hack a destination from the tripâs hit list due to limited time. Sorry Wild Basin, Colorado. Weâll visit you some other time.
Then we figured what the heck, why not hack another destination and spend a nice three whole days in Rocky Mountain National Park? After all, it is our trip and we made up the rules so we can modify them if we want, right? Right. See ya Clear Creek, Colorado – another destination for another day.
So now that weâve got destinationâs 8 and 9 out of the way, itâs time for the grand finale: Durango, Colorado. Weâd heard of the great plethora of rock in Durango from fellow climbers. Thereâs even a bouldering guidebook for it. And weâve always liked the town the few times weâve driven through it on the way to Ouray and Telluride. We were excited for destination #10.
We arrived in Durango around 3pm on Friday. The protocol weâve fallen into on this trip has been to arrive at the destination late in the day. We spend the remainder of the day scoping the climbs we had picked out from the guidebook and/or videos. This way, the next day could be spent just climbing, not hunting around for stuff or getting stuck at the first boulder we see that looks amazing.
Durango was a little different. Iâm not sure what fire got under our butts that day (maybe the REALLY great cup of coffee we scored in Pagosa Springs?), but we literally drove into town, found the local climbing shop, bought the guidebook, drove to the boulders while flipping through itâs pages as fast as possible looking for good lines, parked and haphazardly packed up the kids and pads, speed-hiked the all-uphill 25 minute approach, threw the pads down and just started climbing any and everything we could get our hands on. As Paul summarized rather brilliantly on the dark hike out, âI felt like a dog, running around and pissing on everything!â (Note: For those that havenât hung around Paul or I enough to hear the vulgarities start spewing while weâre climbing, to âpissâ on a climb is a climberâs way of saying he or she âclimbed it with ease.â Or as in, âthat climb was piss-easyâ meaning, âthat climb was extremely easy.â)
Annnnyyyywaaaay, vulgarities aside, the boulders were fun. Really fun! We climbed the next day too, until threatening clouds rolled in and started to thunder, lightening and rain on us. From there we topped the day off with burgers and a brew in town and a visit to the Narrow Gauge Railway museum for the kids timed perfectly with the trainâs arrival from Silverton. Good climbing, good food and beer and a no-kidding operating authentic steam engine all in the same day???!!! Durango is awesome!!!! This made for a stellar ending to a superbly stellar trip. Now back to Tucson.
We tried our best to shoot video of this trip. More so to capture the boys at their adorable ages than us and our earth-shattering sends. đ The climbing video probably sucks anyway since itâs mostly all from a tripod. We hope to put together a little summary post soon, video included. Stay tuned.

A beautiful vista approaching Pagosa Springs from the east

Me warming up on the Petrified Boulder at Sailing Hawks in Durango. Our warm-up lasted probably a total of 10 minutesâŚ

âŚand then we were trying the adjacent v5, Petrified Prow, which Paul sent and I did not. I was basically flash-pumped the whole 2 hours we had to climb that night!

Cute boys

and cool boulders

Google âDurango boulderingâ and this climb will come up, Sunday Stroll v6. Paul flashed it. I worked out the moves but wasnât able to get on it the following day on account of the rain. Excellent line.

These guys ran around just as much if not more than us adults, gathering leaves

and after closer inspection I realized that some of the pretty colorful leaves they were grabbing was poison ivy. Eek!

And thus we learned that the boys have their mamaâs genes of poison ivy immunity, cause dad was the only one who broke out. Poor dad, good thing itâs the end of the trip!

Paul making quick work of Legacy of the Kid v9, send!

Durango landscape

Another excellent line, Last Tango in Durango v6. Same as above, Paul sent that first evening. I came close and then wasnât able to return the following day on account of the rain.

The following day we warmed up and then tried this just as it started to rain, Something Wicked This Way Comes, v6. Static and sweet movement required.

Although I was bummed not to have gotten to try Sunday Stroll and Last Tango in Durango again, sending this baby was a nice little consolation prize. And since Paul had sent literally every problem he had tried upon arrival, including this one, we were off for burgers and brews downtown! Wooo!
posted by arr
Destination #7: Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
October 10th, 2014Our next stop landed us in Rocky Mountain National Park, a place we’ve been a couple of times before. We love these boulders and every time we leave them question why we don’t live closer. This trip, like the few before had us barely scratching the surface of the numerous stellar lines. We scoped out some different areas this time: the Moraine Park Boulders, the Veritas Boulder and some undocumented blocks nearby, and another roadside boulder with the climb Donut Thief on it.

An unnamed climb at the Moraine Park Boulders

Look who joined us up in RMNP! Linda!

Paul giving Veritas v8 a try

Linda on an undocumented face climb sorta near the Veritas Boulder

Same boulder, different line

Paul getting a group spot for this excellent line on an adjacent block

Nature boy Silas with a wild rosehipâŚwe think. He wasnât allowed to eat it.

Ivan gives himself an applause for sending his own âkidâs boulderâ

Paul sending what we think is a v6 variation of The Donut Thief v9

RMNP scenery
posted by arr
Destination #6: Poudre Canyon, Colorado
October 6th, 2014We’re in Colorado now and bouldered at another place we’ve never been, Poudre Canyon, just west of Ft. Collins. At this elevation the Aspen are in full color. Beautiful area, beautiful boulders and beautiful temps! Too bad we’re feeling subpar strength. As expected, the trip is starting to wear on us.
We primarily bouldered at the 420’s. We had really really REALLY wanted to get to Against Humanity, v7 at the Gandalf area, touted as the best of the grade in Poudre. But unfortunately it required a river crossing. We were hoping to wade or rock-hop but neither panned out safe enough to do with the kiddos. While scoping it for us, Paul slipped and fell in and dropped the guide book in the water. He came back to the van totally soaked and had a chat with a fly fisherman as to what the hell he was doing, haha. So sadly, until we come back equipped with waders, Against Humanity is untouchable. Which is probably a good thing (for me anyway), cause given how tired I feel it no doubt wouldn’t have gone well.

The Puffing Stone, v6


Staring down the crux move of Scuba Steve, v7. “Staring” was about as far as I got on this one. Never stuck it.

Paul had no trouble though. The topout of Scuba Steve, v7

Merlin, v7. Paul was having trouble with this one until I gave him the best beta in whole wide world. And then he sent next try. Check out his feet – heel hook with your right and then step on your heel to get the height to reach a left-hand crimp. I call it the heel hook stomp. Heel hook and then stomp on it! Too bad it didn’t work for me. The crimp was too far away and for the first time I can remember I actually used the excuse “out of my reach.” I’m sure there’s probably another (burlier) way to do it though. There always is.



Grrrr. That was MY beta!

Silas sending his own climb. This could perhaps be the cutest photo ever. Look at little Ivan spotting him!

And then Ivan picks one. Looks as though his could use some cleaning.

Atop his first ascent

While bouldering in Poudre we stayed up and over the Cameron Pass at the North Park KOA. All the campgrounds around the bouldering were closed for the season. And the closest open one was about the same distance down-canyon. The scenery at KOA was absolutely gorgeous and again we had the whole campground to ourselves. We just couldn’t pass it up.




Scarface, v6. I had hoped to be able to send this one before we left but the intensity of the trip is catching up with me. I need a good rest.

Paul sent it though, a couple of times…

…cause it was just that good.

Paul ticks Tilt, v7, just barely. He too needs a rest day or two…or three.



Bye bye Poudre. On to the next destination.
posted by arr








