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Road To Revenge

My road to recovery is really my road to revenge against the boulder problem Dark Age. I walked by it today, exactly 1 month since I blew my ring finger out while linking a crucial section of it. Today I only looked. I’m staying low key, listening to the D.R.E, not climbing that is… Over the las few months in 2005 I had only tried the moves and made some progress but in December I was feeling really good, linking sections and doing moves much easier than ever. Rather than setting little segments as my goal, my goal became sending the line. Now, I’ve got this unchecked box on my to-do list, a nagging feeling in the back of my mind reminding me daily of unfinished business. I guess in a way I’ve learned to feed off of this feeling: Wake up, pack two lunches, go to work. Eat the second lunch in the late afternoon so as soon as I get home I can run, do crunches, the “circus ab” routine, leg lifts, pull-ups (on jugs), push-ups, wrist curls and of course, long trail runs in the desert! When I first got injured I thought, man, I’m going to have a lot of free time to get stuff done. Instead, I’ve got plenty of time to plot my revenge against the boulder problem that spit me off when climbing at my peak.

April and I returned to Hueco this weekend. It was nice being back but still torture for me, not climbing. I took out a tour on Saturday to a variety of places on E. Mt. and E. Spur. Sunday, I did a lot of push-ups and sit-ups. ha ha. April did pretty darn good for being away from Hueco for such a long time. Saturday, she made some strong attempts at Uncut Yogi V6, El Burro V3/V10?, and Smokin’ Sausage V4. Sunday she almost sent Donkey Head V4 and made several of the moves on Winking Jesus V7. As we left Hueco I was thinking, “Wow, how is she staying so strong?” But, then I remembered that she has been doing hangboard, campusing, woodying by her lonesome, and running with me very consistently over the last month. Its been nice, we’ve kept each other well motivated.

Do you ever crave a nice juicy burger for breakfast?
Do you ever crave a All-American beef patty when going out for Mexican food?
Do you ever crave a quarter pounder with a couple donuts?

I don’t. And I don’t plan on eating here…

Deming, New Mexico.

posted by pjv

This entry (Permalink) was posted on Sunday, January 15th, 2006 at 10:18 pm and is filed under Bouldering, Hueco Tanks-Texas. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.

6 Responses to “Road To Revenge”

  1. Tammy Says:

    This is hilarious. he he he. I think we should have a celebratory feast here after you send Dark Age…I’ll buy.

  2. April Says:

    Why does no one ever comment on our site? Are we *that* lame?

    Guess so.

  3. April Says:

    Oh yey! A comment from Tammy! We rock!

  4. jd Says:

    Here is another comment. Plus this is my way of giving you me new email address at my new job. I’m having trouble downloading my old address book so I’ve lost a lot of emails. Send me a message so i can get your address again.
    I also want you to post the circus abs routine on the website so we can all enjoy!

  5. April Says:

    Circus abs are top-secret material! We’ll have to have a super-secret classified discussion on whether that info can be revealed. 😉

  6. jd Says:

    Top Secret??!! I thought you guys weren’t supposed to be competetive since you didn’t play sports in high school?? Very interesting indeed. You claim to not be competetive but then you hide away under your dark homemade woody and do your “precious” circus abs without sharing with friends. Now we are not going to share the workout we have that practically guarantee you’ll never climb harder than V5!! Hah, so there!

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