Day 145: Resting Complete
I’m not much of a crack climber but the most appealing line at the Happies, to me, is a crack climb called Slow Dance v10. It starts low in a cave and the path of usable holds follows the only separations wide enough in the crack for a few finger tips to fit in. The guidebook describes this climb as finishing to the left of the crack and dropping off. How lame for such a cool climb? In my opinion the line should be climbed through the crack to the right and finish far right, where the crack in the massive boulder continues. The guidebook labels this particular version Mandance and is given a slightly harder grade of v11. For added excitement and to follow the crack to its completion I took it further right and higher off the ground.
I questioned my ethical purity however, as I ventured rightward out the crack, veering away from the jugs of the normal top out. The pure line and the outstanding movement kept me psyched though. Totally pumped and way off the ground I cruised to the top of the house-sized boulder. As I caught my breath and started the down climb I realized that the pure line was the right line. One of my favorites in Bishop.
Executing the sending beta on Mandance v11
posted by pjv
This entry (Permalink) was posted
on Tuesday, November 4th, 2008 at 11:37 pm and is filed under Bishop-California, Bouldering.
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