High Points
So now that we’ve reached a high point in our home improvements (Porch, done. Guest House Bathroom, done. Main House Bathroom, done. Hot Tub Shade Roof, done.), it’s time to update you all with more serious matters: CLIMBING. HARD climbing. Although it may appear that we’ve replaced our beloved sport of climbing with “This Old House” episodes lately, this is hardly the case. Quietly, we’ve been sneaking away on weekends…cuttin’ ruts in I-10…throwing our crashpads down underneath some of our hardest endeavors yet. Our month off over the holidays worked out just as planned. Our muscles rested, our bodies rejuvenated. And now we’re back in tip-top shape and climbing stronger than ever. On what? Here’s the scoop:
Rewind 4 seasons ago to our very first trip to Hueco, and our very first glimpse on Martini Roof. If you’ve spent any time at all on this website, you’ve probably read at least a dozen-million accounts of us raving about all the fantastic climbs in the Martini Roof. First it started with Paul sending Left Martini, his first v10. Then me with Baby Martini, my first v6. Then me again on Big Iron on His Hip, v7. Not to mention Schadenfraud v5, Martini Hotbox v9, and Dirty Martini v9. Can you tell we love this place? From day 1, however, Paul has been drooling….and I mean drooling….over yet another Martini classic: Shaken Not Stirred (aka Right Martini), v12. Well, after 4 seasons the time has finally come to start giving Right Martini some attention. And the attention has been positive. *Very* positive. Every weekend I’ve watched Paul progress steadily. First working out the beta, then linking the crux, and now finally awesome sending go’s. The send is inevitable. This weekend’s highpoint on the climb made us both realize just how inevitable it is. But we try not to think about it yet….not until Paul’s right hand cranks up to the finishing hold on Big Iron on His Hip. Then it will be time for the ultimate celebration. “Martini, please. Shaken, not stirred.” 🙂
So that’s Paul’s news. Now what’s new with me. Back in December I had my sights set on one climb and one climb only: Mushroom Roof, v8. I was able to link the sections pretty quick and had started giving it sending go’s. Just to give it one last shot before the holidays, Paul and I took a vacation day from work on Monday, December 17th and headed to Hueco for what was hoped to be, my send. Alas, I did not send it that day. As a consolation prize however, I snagged a send on Left El Murray, v6 instead (of which I was TOTALLY psyched on). No big deal, I’ll just save Mushroom Roof for January. Then Saturday, December 22nd, 5 days later, the Mushroom Boulder was closed. Permanently. Indefinitely. Forever. I’m not going to gripe and moan and woh-as-me any further than this on this topic. I’ll just end it with saying I was heartbroken. As were many other climbers I’m sure.
So January 2008 comes, and with it my new quest to find my next obsession. I need another v8. But it has to be a good v8…..as good as Mushroom Roof. So I dabbled on some climbs here and there and surprisingly, landed my sights on the Bloody Flapper Traverse. I say surprisingly because this climb is crimpier, longer, and just a degree harder than Mushroom Roof. It’s a v9. Hey! Who says I can’t try a v9 without having never sent a v8?! There aren’t rules in rock climbing! Are there? I say no. And I say my send of Bloody Flapper Traverse is also inevitable. I too, reached an incredible high point this weekend on my climb. Although I think my progression may be a bit slower than Paul’s progression on Right Martini, I know that I can do this climb. Ultimate celebrations are on the horizon. Martini’s and bloody flappers! Now *that’s* rock climbing. 🙂
posted by arr
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on Sunday, February 10th, 2008 at 10:08 pm and is filed under Bouldering, Hueco Tanks-Texas.
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