{"id":792,"date":"2013-03-05T23:25:06","date_gmt":"2013-03-06T03:25:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/?p=792"},"modified":"2013-03-12T00:18:44","modified_gmt":"2013-03-12T04:18:44","slug":"dad-eats-v11s-for-breakfast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/?p=792","title":{"rendered":"Dad Eats V11’s for Breakfast"},"content":{"rendered":"

As promised<\/a>, here is my next all-climbing post. Which, as you can probably guess (by the completely discreet and modest title) is Paul’s mid-season report card. This write-up will be easy. Cause Paul doesn’t have any drawn-out, dramatic sagas of epic sends. His method this season is rather simple really: Try a climb, send it, move on to the next one, try it, send it, find another, try it, send it…you get the picture. Most of the climbs on his ticklist he cleaned up in a day. A handful, he came super close to doing in a day and then came back another day and sent first try. And only 1 climb took him a whopping three days of effort, which also happened to be the hardest. All this in preparation for what Paul *really* wants on his ticklist – his first v13. It’s hard to say at this point if a 13 will happen before this winter Hueco season is over or if it will come later this year. Regardless, when it does finally come, THAT will be the dramatic saga I write about for Paul. Perhaps I’ll title it “Climbers with Kids Rejoice: Dad Sends Crown of Aragorn with Toddler on his Back.”<\/a><\/p>\n

Here’s Paul’s mid-season ticklist:<\/p>\n

Burn Baby Burn, v8<\/strong>. An endurance traverse in The Gymnasium with a defined crux near the end. This is a great place for the kids. Too bad Paul has now ticked off everything in there and is not psyched on returning.<\/p>\n


\n\"\"<\/a>
\nPaul somewhere along Burn Baby Burn<\/em><\/center><\/p>\n

Bush League, v8<\/strong>. Fun, low roof near Windy Ass.<\/p>\n

Something Different, v8<\/strong>. Repeat.<\/p>\n

Mystery Knobber, v8<\/strong>. Short, crimpy and technical. Next to Two Days with Gene.<\/p>\n

Je Suis Wedge, v8<\/strong>. Short and powerful ‘wedge’ of rock next to Flower Power. The mission was Flower Power this day but some friends on our tour started trying it so of course Paul had to as well. <\/p>\n

Adjust Your Attitude, v8<\/strong>. Repeat.<\/p>\n

Assisted Living, v8<\/strong>. New climb on North down near The Terminator. A big thanks to our friend Ander for walking up at the perfect moment and giving Paul a spot over the prickly pear.<\/p>\n

Frogger, v9<\/strong>. Flash. <\/p>\n

Bloody Flapper Traverse, v9<\/strong>. Repeat.<\/p>\n

Dragonfly Low, v9<\/strong>. Repeat.<\/p>\n

Rose Fruited Juniper, v9<\/strong>. Quality climb up above The Dark Heart. This was a “screaming-kids” send.<\/p>\n

A Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix, v10<\/strong>. Completed in a day.<\/p>\n


\n\"\"<\/a>
\nSwiss Crisp Mix<\/em><\/center><\/p>\n

Free Willy, v10\/11<\/strong>. Repeat.<\/p>\n

Full Service, v10<\/strong>. Repeat.<\/p>\n

Burden of the Beast, v10<\/strong>. Fell at the end on first day. Came back another day and completed first go.<\/p>\n


\n\"\"<\/a>
\nSending Burden of the Beast<\/em> head first, not feet first<\/center><\/p>\n

Predator, v10<\/strong>. Repeat.<\/p>\n

Flower Power, v11<\/strong>. On the first day he had pads, spotters, cheerleaders, the whole nine yards – came sooo close but didn’t quite pull it off (most likely due to expending precious energy on Je Suis Wedge, see above). Had to come back another day with just the kids and I. The good thing about doing it first try that second day was he had only two pads and no spot. “No need for pads or a spot if you don’t fall.” The bad thing about it was that the cave where the kids and I hung out in while he climbed contained a mighty fine ‘natural slide’ in the rock that Silas had a blast on. Silas wasn’t too psyched on leaving so quickly after dad’s prompt send.<\/p>\n

Le Chinkel, v11<\/strong>. Two days. Same story – the first day he had pads and spotters but fell pulling the lip. Had to come back with just the kids and I and the two pads and no spot.<\/p>\n


\n\"\"<\/a>
\nThe big lockoff on Le Chinkel<\/em><\/center><\/p>\n

Butterpumper, v11<\/strong>. Two days. No kneebar.<\/p>\n

Rumble in the Jungle, v12<\/strong>. Three days. Day 1 – Quickly sampled most of the moves, thought he could make quick business of it that day. Started giving sending go’s but slowly realized he couldn’t reach the crux move with the bomber heelhook. Day 2 – watched a bunch of You Tube videos. Tried the heelhook beta again. Still couldn’t make the reach. Day 3 – watched a bunch more You Tube videos. Abandoned the heel hook beta. Muscled up and sent.<\/p>\n


\n\"\"<\/a>
\nRumble in the Jungle<\/em>. I wish I was a little bit taller, I wish I was a baller<\/center><\/p>\n

So what’s on Paul’s radar now? A couple more 11’s (Hueco is stacked with the v11 grade!) and the hard stuff: Nagual, Slashface, Alma Blanca or Crown. Epic! \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

posted by arr<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As promised, here is my next all-climbing post. Which, as you can probably guess (by the completely discreet and modest title) is Paul’s mid-season report card. This write-up will be easy. Cause Paul doesn’t have any drawn-out, dramatic sagas of epic sends. His method this season is rather simple really: Try a climb, send it, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[3,19],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/792"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=792"}],"version-history":[{"count":41,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/792\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":862,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/792\/revisions\/862"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=792"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=792"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=792"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}