{"id":2307,"date":"2015-02-24T16:34:07","date_gmt":"2015-02-24T20:34:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/?p=2307"},"modified":"2015-02-24T16:35:44","modified_gmt":"2015-02-24T20:35:44","slug":"progress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/?p=2307","title":{"rendered":"Progress"},"content":{"rendered":"

So remember when I said winter was over here in the southwest? Well, I spoke too soon. Monday a cold front blew in and yesterday we awoke to FREEZING and WINDY conditions. I’m not at all exaggerating. It was 25 degrees when we headed to the office around 8:30am to snag some North Mountain walk-ins. Because I had been waiting sooooo long for cold temps on Bloody Flapper Traverse, v9<\/em> (which bakes in the sun), I felt it would be stupid not to get on it. So we filled the thermos with hot chocolate, bundled the bambinos and headed out.<\/p>\n

The short hike to the climb carrying Ivan was enough to get me warm. I pulled onto the easy parts of Bloody Flapper Traverse<\/em> and felt amazing! Light as a feather! I quickly did the v4 ending using some new non-condition dependent beta (a sequence that replaces reliance on a greasy sloper that I inevitably slide off of when it’s warm and sunny with a bigger, dynamic bypass of the hold). I then started lower on the climb, trying to link the harder crimpy moves into my new finishing sequence. My performance however quickly deteriorated as I got colder and colder and colder. I couldn’t climb enough to stay warm and I couldn’t rest enough without getting colder. I finally called it and we headed back to the van. It was close to noon now and our thermometer said 30 degrees, without wind chill. And, while we’d been out a light dusting of snow covered the mountain tops. No wonder I was cold!<\/p>\n

We made another thermos of hot chocolate and warmed up in the van a bit before heading back out to part two of our day’s mission: Slashface, v13<\/em>. Lucky for Paul the sun finally came out and the wind stopped. Another classically perfect Hueco climbing day was now our’s for the taking. Paul had excellent progress on Slashface<\/em>. First go, starting at the beginning, he stuck the “big move”. He’d stuck the big move a few weeks ago but not from the beginning of the climb. THEN, starting from the big move he did the “crossover” AND “held the swing”. This was a first for holding the swing. All climbing jargon aside, what this means in layman’s terms is that Paul can not only finally do all the moves on Slashface<\/em>, but has it linked into 2 segments. Woot whoot!<\/p>\n

From Slahsface<\/em> we moved over to Mo Mojo, v11\/12<\/em>. Paul was too tired though to send after all the Slashface<\/em> attempts. Maybe next time. So then we were off to Ultramega, v8<\/em>. It’s been logistically annoying for my project to be on North Mountain and Paul’s to be on East Mountain, so Paul recommended I give Ultramega<\/em> a try to see if I liked it. Normally I wouldn’t get on a brand new v8 this late in the season, especially in the middle of a trip. But Ultramega<\/em> being at the same angle as our climbing wall at home, with relatively straight-forward left, right, left, right beta, Paul convinced me it was right up my alley and I could probably tick it off relatively quickly. I think he’s right. I put all the moves together and linked major sections in just a couple hours. And now it’s all I can think about. \ud83d\ude42 Ok, ok, I’m still thinking about Bloody Flapper Traverse<\/em> too. And this other v9 that I’ve been dabbling on a bit here and there that I haven’t even mentioned yet. As well as handful of other climbs…. I could go on forever here. \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n


\n\"\"<\/a>
\nSticking the swing on Slashface, v13<\/em><\/center><\/p>\n


\n\"\"<\/a>
\nMaking my way up Ultramega, v8<\/em><\/center><\/p>\n

posted by arr<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

So remember when I said winter was over here in the southwest? Well, I spoke too soon. Monday a cold front blew in and yesterday we awoke to FREEZING and WINDY conditions. I’m not at all exaggerating. It was 25 degrees when we headed to the office around 8:30am to snag some North Mountain walk-ins. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[3,19],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2307"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2307"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2307\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2315,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2307\/revisions\/2315"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2307"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2307"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.apadventures.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2307"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}