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Bookworm at the Boulders

February 5th, 2023

posted by ARR

Celebration, Misery, Satisfaction & Discovery

January 15th, 2023
The celebration: Ivan finally completed his long-standing project Stationary Snake, V3!
The misery: the wind kicked up so bad our pads were flying all over the place at Serious Legends. It was cold. I did not feel strong. And Paul’s hand tweak from a couple months ago started acting up.
The satisfaction: Silas stuck what is for him the crux on Moonshine Roof, V4
The discovery: this fun little ditty Paul found that we later learned is a V4 called Beautiful Weirdo

posted by ARR

2022 Send Reel

January 11th, 2023

posted by ARR

Two Hours

December 19th, 2022

I think it’s fair to say that I spend a significant portion of my days in the “highly motivated” category. Lucky for me, I happened to be married to a man of similar motivation. Add the two kiddos and….the psyche runs strong in my family.

Psyche or no psyche, life logistics that threaten to prevent me, excuse me, US! from getting out there on real rock seem to be growing with every year that ticks by. Currently, both boys are in competition gymnastics. The competition season is in winter, which automatically cancels a handful of perfect-weather climbing weekends here in the desert. And now this year Ivan has practice on Saturdays. So what’s a highly-motivated-most-of-the-time climber that is dying to go to Hueco to do?

Leave gymnastics practice on Saturday and bee-line it straight to Hueco, screeching in just before the office closes so we can check in to our campsite. Make a nice dinner and go to bed early. Then wake early Sunday and start climbing as soon as the park opens at 8am. There are four of us, and each person gets two hours max on the boulder problem of their choice. Include transit time, and we’ve got a full but still doable day. Brilliant!

We’ve done this twice now, and all had really good days on our problems of choice, even each of us progressing from last weekend to this one. We’ll head back to Hueco again in three weeks, and in the meantime fantasize about our next two hours of satisfaction.

Silas still sussing out the crux on Moonshine Roof, V4
Paul getting all the beta worked out on The Hand, V10
Ivan soooo close to sending Stationary Snake, V3
And same for me on Serious Legends, V9! Best go EVER today! What is that, an inch or less from sticking the crux (from the start)?!!! Please universe, give me my two hours in three weeks, PLEASE!!!!

posted by ARR

Two Days with Gene

April 2nd, 2022
A Hueco 4-star V11. Sent!

posted by ARR

Video: Surrounded by strong boys at Hueco

March 6th, 2022

posted by ARR

Ivan sends!

February 20th, 2022
Skimmer, his first v3!
And we continue to spend lots of time here at Mr. Serious Wall. So much time that Paul has re-dialed every line on it and had a “no fall” day on Mr. Serious v8, then Dead Serious v10, followed by A Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix v10, and finally my Serious Legends v9….as a cool down I’m sure. Sometimes being married to this man is annoying.

posted by ARR

Perfect Winter Hueco Weather

February 6th, 2022
Warming up in the sun, Silas heads up Mopboys Crack Left, v1
…followed by Ivan
Silas getting psyched on the best v4 EVER, Moonshine Roof
while Ivan opts to “chillax”

Perfect winter Hueco weather and yet no new hard sends were had. Three Saturdays ago I felt amazing on Serious Legends. Two Saturdays ago I felt like crap on it. Last Saturday we couldn’t be at Hueco because the boys had a gymnastics meet, which was a good thing because I had to work like a dog, but then a bad thing because after working like a dog I walked over to the woody and sent all 4 (FOUR!) of my woody projects!!!! Plus a repeat project for good measure. Perhaps best woody session ever. Now, sending on plastic is great and all, but sending on plastic when I should be at Hueco sending the real deal is bad. Very bad. Very very bad. Especially after going back to Serious Legends THIS weekend and feeling like crap on it again. 😤

posted by ARR

Bitter

January 24th, 2022

Not bitter as in “bitter cold”, which it was this weekend indeed (high 40’s and windy at Hueco!). Bitter as in I’m bitter that I felt like crap this weekend! After last weekend’s amazing big link I had on Serious Legends into the crux, I thought for sure this weekend would be some sending attempts. Nope. Not at all. Even after going to bed early, not drinking too much wine, and resting all week! Grrrrr. Bitter.

Feeling like crap and not even into the hard part yet on Serious Legends,v9

But the sunrise early Saturday morning was nice!

posted by ARR

Surrounded by cute boys at Hueco

January 16th, 2022

posted by ARR