The original Plan A was for the four of us to all hike down to Plateau Point together; a nice little family day hike. 'Nice and little', however, is hardly an accurate description. After Paul and I refreshed our poor memories with the fact that this was a 12.2 mile hike roundtrip, with over 3,000 feet elevation gain (ahem,"loss"), we all quickly realized that this wasn't quite what we had in mind for a fun family hike. Thankfully, we realized the magnitude of this hike up on the Rim versus down in the heated depths of the Canyon, (contrary to all the misfortunate hikers in "Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon;" a *fascinating* book of gruesome cooked-to-a-crisp mishaps in the big G.C. that we picked up in the gift shop and just CAN'T PUT DOWN!) :-)

On to Plan B. Now, let me just mention one thing here - had Paul and I devised Plan B in the car on the way to the G.C., it most likely would have gone something along the lines of a moderate out-and-back, minimal elevation, perhaps hiking the Rim Trail from start to finish, etc. But no. The answer to Plan B was immediately dictated upon our first glance into the Canyon and down at Plateau Point: Paul and I were going. And that's all there was to it. We *had* to go. The gravitation of the Canyon was practically yanking us off the South Rim. Come on in! It's a party down here! Perhaps this is the natural tendency of the massive Canyon....does everyone feel this way or is it just us? Or perhaps the big "Grand Canyon Adventure" pried open another passion that is quietly, patiently waiting for us to get this rock climbing obsession out of our blood so that we can move on to bigger mileage mentality (not likely, haha). Whatever the case may be, Paul and I decided right then and there that we were goin', and goin' in deep.

So Plan B turned out to be this: Paul, myself, Mom and Dad would all leave the South Rim together and start heading down Bright Angel Trail. Paul and I would run, and Mom and Dad would hike. After 2 hours of downward progress, the plan was for both parties to turn around and start heading back up to the South Rim. At 2 hours, Paul and I estimated we'd be at Plateau Point (6.1 miles) and my parents somewhere around the 3 mile rest-house. Paul and I would then book it up to meet up with Mom and Dad and we'd all enjoy the Rim top-out together. That was the plan, man.

Well, our estimate couldn't have been anymore dead on. Paul and I made it to the amazing Plateau Point, and my parents to a sweet vista just below the 3 mile rest house. Both parties enjoyed a tasty lunch with a view to die for. Paul and I met back up with my parents about 1.5 miles from the Rim and we all cruised to the top. A perfect hike in the world's most perfect Canyon.

Personally, I didn't care at all. I've pulled off some sends over the last several months that I've been really proud of. April on the other hand, was extremely close to ticking her first V8 this season, until the ultra-classic Mushroom Roof was closed. She worked all the moves and made excellent links on Left Martini V10, worked out and started sending gos of Bloody Flapper Traverse V9, fell on the last move several times, on King Cobra (a burly V6) and there were countless other problems where I noticed her make a tremendous amount of progress. For a good bit of the season I was jealous because I could see her progression and wondered if mine was as obvious. Or if I was progressing. But perhaps that jealously fueled my motivation to achieve new levels. Overall we certainly can't complain. The last several months at Hueco contained weekends spent with great friends, good food, fun times and plans to climb yet again in places far.

Yesterday, April and I left work early, threw the crashpads in the car and drove 5 minutes down the road to a boulder we've never even touched (how dare us, I know). We had a nice evening session trying out the classic "Hairpin Roof," v6 and other variations on the boulder. As an added birthday treat April managed to quickly send the classic v6 version. Check it out...

Rewind 4 seasons ago to our very first trip to Hueco, and our very first glimpse on Martini Roof. If you’ve spent any time at all on this website, you’ve probably read at least a dozen-million accounts of us raving about all the fantastic climbs in the Martini Roof. First it started with Paul sending Left Martini, his first v10. Then me with Baby Martini, my first v6. Then me again on Big Iron on His Hip, v7. Not to mention Schadenfraud v5, Martini Hotbox v9, and Dirty Martini v9. Can you tell we love this place? From day 1, however, Paul has been drooling....and I mean drooling....over yet another Martini classic: Shaken Not Stirred (aka Right Martini), v12. Well, after 4 seasons the time has finally come to start giving Right Martini some attention. And the attention has been positive. *Very* positive. Every weekend I’ve watched Paul progress steadily. First working out the beta, then linking the crux, and now finally awesome sending go’s. The send is inevitable. This weekend’s highpoint on the climb made us both realize just how inevitable it is. But we try not to think about it yet....not until Paul’s right hand cranks up to the finishing hold on Big Iron on His Hip. Then it will be time for the ultimate celebration. “Martini, please. Shaken, not stirred.” :-)

So that’s Paul’s news. Now what’s new with me. Back in December I had my sights set on one climb and one climb only: Mushroom Roof, v8. I was able to link the sections pretty quick and had started giving it sending go’s. Just to give it one last shot before the holidays, Paul and I took a vacation day from work on Monday, December 17th and headed to Hueco for what was hoped to be, my send. Alas, I did not send it that day. As a consolation prize however, I snagged a send on Left El Murray, v6 instead (of which I was TOTALLY psyched on). No big deal, I’ll just save Mushroom Roof for January. Then Saturday, December 22nd, 5 days later, the Mushroom Boulder was closed. Permanently. Indefinitely. Forever. I’m not going to gripe and moan and woh-as-me any further than this on this topic. I’ll just end it with saying I was heartbroken. As were many other climbers I’m sure.

So January 2008 comes, and with it my new quest to find my next obsession. I need another v8. But it has to be a good v8.....as good as Mushroom Roof. So I dabbled on some climbs here and there and surprisingly, landed my sights on the Bloody Flapper Traverse. I say surprisingly because this climb is crimpier, longer, and just a degree harder than Mushroom Roof. It’s a v9. Hey! Who says I can’t try a v9 without having never sent a v8?! There aren’t rules in rock climbing! Are there? I say no. And I say my send of Bloody Flapper Traverse is also inevitable. I too, reached an incredible high point this weekend on my climb. Although I think my progression may be a bit slower than Paul’s progression on Right Martini, I know that I can do this climb. Ultimate celebrations are on the horizon. Martini’s and bloody flappers! Now *that’s* rock climbing. :-)

Here is a view from the entrance. We had the light switch moved since everyone had trouble finding it.

Our talavera sink, tile counter top and new cabinet

The talavera sink up close. We purchased this one in Tucson, not Mexico.

Our tile design for the top of the shower.

Soap/Shampoo dishes!

That window that was rotting.

Big use of little space.

Click on the picture to see the slideshow

The shower tiles are up. Needs grout.

The sink and cabinet are in place. Needs grout.

Extra Shelves. Needs painted.

It was a cold morning when we started working on the shade roof.

Posts are finally up.

Here is another view with the woody in the background.

Remember the "porch project?" We sure do. In the background of the first picture is a nice reminder to me that our major porch re-building is done. The picture is also scary because here we are again, painting round wooden posts. Luckily these posts have nothing to do with the porch. They will be used for the shade structure over the spa.

In the back of this picture you can see the original shade roof over the spa. Dale's hands frame it well. In a monsoon storm over the summer that entire roof fell! Luckily nothing was damaged and nobody was underneath it! Now it's time for us engineers to overbuild it so that it stands the test of time.

Here is a picture taken in bad lighting of what our bathroom looked like before work started.

Here is a view of the floor looking into the shower. We thought the tiles were really ugly in the shower but regardless of how they looked, they were totally impossible to clean.

April looks into the bathroom and thinks, "So much for those tiles in the shower. Bye bye." Or, "What did we just do to our perfectly functioning bathroom.

Our chance to put a light in the dark 'closet of a shower' that once existed.

The window in our shower before the demolition.

The window during demolition. Notice the rotten window ledge.

The window, starting to take shape.

We hope to keep up with posting some pictures of our progress. In the meantime I better get back to training. We're off to Hueco again, soon....

From www.Climbing.com:
"Sometimes called the single best boulder in the world, the Mushroom Boulder at Hueco Tanks, Texas, has been closed to climbing to protect the soil, plant life, and possible archaeological resources under the rock."

This stellar last day started off at the Mushroom Boulder. While warming up, our good friend Nate, whom we hadn’t seen for nearly two years, randomly strolled up. Coincidentally it was the last day of his short four day trip all the way from New Hampshire. A pleasant surprise!

When my feet started to get cold and I couldn’t wait to leave to try some problems at the next spot I said to April, “Hurry up with Mushroom Roof. Either send it or let’s go. I’m psyched to try some other stuff.” April replied, “Alright, I’m about done here. Today isn’t the day for Mushroom but I’m going to give one go on Left El Murray before we leave.” Many a hardman and hardwoman have claimed the ultimate classic Left El Murray (v6) HARDER than Mushroom Roof (v8), myself included. April has given Left El Murray much attention over the years, and to no avail. Well, today was an exception to all of the above. She crushed it.

The rest of the day was a combination of running into more old friends (the season is ON) and linking up hard moves on all the problems we touched. April & Raquel had a good little session on King Cobra (v6), while my bros and I slapped the finishing hold on Anal Intruder #10 (v11). After that, I managed to make my best link yet on Right Martini (v12). It’s now time for sending go’s! And the day concluded with some spontaneous interest by myself, April, and Raquel in The Bloody Flapper Traverse (v9) - a climb that I’ve dabbled on in the past but never managed to send....until today.

So now what? April and I are both climbing harder now than we’ve ever climbed before. To keep us in tune for the duration of the Hueco season, which has only just begun, it’s time to take a short pitstop. We’re going to rest up, enjoy the holidays with the families, let our tendons relax and get reacquainted with our muscle fibers, and continue the season stronger than ever. See you in January, Hueco.

I was like, “Uh, whatever macho saying you just told me doesn’t sound good. Where did you come up with that rule? I mean, I’ve basically written this crimp nightmare off of my tick list but for some reason I’m going to try it again today. I guess by the sounds of it, I have to do this climb to really get credit for completing the three El Murrays. Right?”

Justin said, “Check out the guidebook man, I’m not lying.”

“The steepest section of the wall is home to the Left, Center, and Right El Murrays. The Center El Murray has been justly dubbed Hueco’s Greatest Problem. Many a tough guy has had fits at the El Murrays, knowing that if he doesn’t tick all three he’ll leave Hueco only half a hardman.”

John Sherman, “Texas Tall Tales”
Climbing Magazine No. 116.

It was funny because after hearing Justin tell me that goofy phrase something in my brain clicked. I thought to myself, “I can’t leave this problem undone. I have to do it. I have to do it even if my fingers snap off. I can’t leave here today knowing that I’m half a hardman. I am a FULL HARDMAN!” Yes. Psyched. The moment of psychedness overcame my body and I yelled to April, “Hey, quit working Mushroom Roof, gimme the pads now! I’m psyched.” She was like, “Alright fine, but hurry up. My feet are getting cold watching you flail on your attempts.”

Oh well, it didn’t quite register what she said. I grabbed the pads, threw them down, chalked up and pulled on.

Thought process:
- Ouch, left hand fingers crimp side-pull, thumb digs deep into a sharp spike
- Right hand crimps something but first move is to a hold that doesn’t really exist and isn’t chalked that much but I pretend it’s there and crimp HARD. Ouch again.
- Ok, left foot up, the jarring movement of my foot grinds my left thumb and right crimp deeper, ouch. Oh well, go.
- One more left foot smack. Ouch.
- Cross over to another no-chalk imaginary crimp. OUCH! Oh man I stuck it!
- Don’t fall now! Or you will have to repeat those moves again
- Right hand to a sharp, fairly good, side-pull...breath baby
- Set feet and move left hand from very painful crimp to less painful crimp. Mini ouch.
- Now, setup, look, spot the final jug hueco with birds nest inside, leap and do not damage bird’s nest...STICK! Yeah. Let out loud yell for good measure and to unleash all the pent up pain. Whoooo hoooooo.
- Top out and say, “Damn, I’m never doing that climb ever again!”

Ahhhhhhh. Damn it feels good to be a HARDMAN!

Paul and I flew back east for our family “Thanksgiving” two weekends ago, so this weekend was treated like any ‘ol weekend for us. Only this weekend, we had FOUR whole days off from work. And like many of the 4-day weekends prior, we decided yet again to make the grueling trek up to the east side of the Sierra Nevadas to squeeze out 2.5 precious days of Bishop bouldering. 12 hours of driving (each way) for only two and a half days of climbing? Is it really worth it? I’d like to say that we are sane and logical human beings and we ask ourselves this question each time we decide to make this heinous trek. But we don’t. We just go.

Thursday afternoon, Thanksgiving Day, finds myself, Paul and ‘lil brown dog Morgan bumpin’ along in our Sportsmobile van up the washboard dirt road toward the Buttermilks. Our tick lists - which we feverishly scratched down the night before (if you’re me) or 2 weeks before (if you’re Paul) - are packed with more climbs than can usually be ticked in a whole two weeks. And, well, since we have a mere two days, we best be gettin’ to the business.

Our first stop is the Pollen Grains. It’s around 2ish and we have just enough time to go find this amazing looking line we’ve seen in photo after photo. High, technical, not too hard and thin: Jedi Mind Tricks, v4. Paul promptly eats this little morsel up with an onsight and declares it his all-time second favorite v4 ever (Moonshine Roof at Hueco holding the first place position, OF course). I pass on this one. Too high for me today! We then start making our way up to The Beekeeper’s Apprentice, but the steep face of the Honey Boulder sucks us in and we boulder on it until dark. Paul quickly ticks Cindy Swank, v7 and Finder’s Fee, v9. I come pretty darn close on Cindy Swank but then darkness closes in and we call it quits.

Friday is a Happies day. Our mission this day is two lines: Slow Dance, v10 for Paul and Gleaner, v6 for me. Paul spends about an hour linking up the moves of Slow Dance very nicely, but there’s not enough time to pull it together for a send today. On next to Gleaner. After chillin’ in the cold Slow Dance cave with Paul, I thought I’d need some time to warm up a bit on Gleaner before giving it some sending attempts. I think wrong and quickly tick it. Woo!

Originally we had planned on climbing at the Buttermilks on Saturday. However, since we had such an awesome time at the Pollen Grains two days prior, we decided to head back. Turned out to be a great decision because we basically have all the boulders to ourselves on this busy holiday weekend. After some less-than-stellar grainy, slabby, scary warm-ups, we throw our pads under the classic roof of the Beekeeper Boulder. I work on the Beekeeper’s Apprentice, v5. No send - a little burlier than I had anticipated! Or maybe I’m just tired - yeah that’s it, haha. Paul shows me how it’s done and then some - ticking off all the rest of the climbs under the Beekeeper roof. Fun little session. After a few more Pollen Grains classics and some more sending go’s from me on Cindy Swank, we declare our muscles and tips total toast.

With a couple more hours of daylight, we finish off the day - and the trip - with a hike up to the Bardini Boulders to check out The Maze of Death, v12 and to admire with dropped jaws, the monolith highball This Side of Paradise, v10. Dwarfed under the massive Bardini Boulder, with the vast Sierra Nevadas behind us, the multitude of Buttermilk boulders in front of us, and the canyons holding the still more Happy and Sad boulders off in the distance, we pretty much decide right then and there that a 4-day weekend at Bishop is *not* enough. There are too many boulders we want to climb! Too many projects we dream of sending! We’ve been making these short little jaunts up to these boulders for 4 years now. And in these 4 years, the wish list has grown pages longer than the tick list. The realization sinks in. It’s time to start setting our sights on a real Bishop roadtrip. Soon.